The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area The Electrical Bay Speedometer re-facing

Hi all,

I know that many of you have refaced gages. I'm halfway through the gage cluster on my '47 3100. I've started on the speedo and it's gone well so far (replaced the needle, repainted the bucket).

I've sanded the face plate and was getting ready to apply the decals when I realized that the face plate has an embossed ridge:
http://s1256.photobucket.com/user/B...p/Gages/IMG_0372.jpg.html?sort=3&o=0
and here:
http://s1256.photobucket.com/user/B...p/Gages/IMG_0354.jpg.html?sort=3&o=1

Given that the decal sheet is once piece for the face plate, how have the rest of you dealt with this?

Thanks for the help,

Bill

When I did mine I applied the decal, then worked as much air/water out from around that ridge as I could and then let it set for a while. Every now and then, for the rest of the day, I would go back, pick the gauge up and work the decal into the ridge. It seems that the air/water would somehow work it's way out maybe through the face of the decal and it would stick better to the contour of the ridge. The next morning I went over it one more time before I installed it and it stuck and has stayed since.

Hope that helps.

Thanks twotone.

I'll give that a try.

Best regards,

Bill

If its a water slip decal you can greatly improve adhesion buy using Testors Decal Set. I sell water slip decals for GMC/Chevvy motors and recommend it.

You may have to find an actual model shop, usually not at wallyworld or toys-r-us.

I use water with a little bit of dish washing liquid. You can move it around all you want and it is easy to squidgy out all of the water and air bubbles. Once you do that, it won't move.

A hair dryer helps with the raised area on the speedometer face as well as the rivet indentations in the fuel, oil pressure, charging and temp gauge. Just be careful not to get the decal too hot. The warm air helps remove the soapy water and bubbles too.

Thanks all. I'll let you know how my project goes, with pics (if it's not embarrassing ;-) )

Shouldn't there be a shaft showing in this pic?

...pic...

My needle popped out with a portion of the shaft attached to it:
http://s1256.photobucket.com/user/B...p/Gages/IMG_0349.jpg.html?sort=3&o=3

To the best of may ability to see, the remainder is a split shaft that the stub fits into, visible below the gage face in the picture you're referencing, DADS50.

Have you ever seen one like this before? It's out of a 1947 3100 if that makes any difference in speedometer head design.

I appreciate your feedback. Thanks and best regards,

Bill

I'm not familiar with the 47, My 50 had a portion of the shaft protruding when the needle was removed.

Hopefully someone will be along and let you know if that is normal for your 47.

you will need to use the weight off your old needle and transfer it to your new one.

Well Bill, I thought I'd posted something last week about that
very same thing. If the shaft came out with the needle, then
you better get to looking for some new innards cus the shaft
taint made to pop out, it snapped off at the root.

http://www.classicparts.com/1949-51-Speedometer-80-mph-New/productinfo/24-305A/#.UzHxT8uPLcc

Denny G

Denny, DADS50 (Gus?),

Thank you for pointing this out. I was preparing to tear down the odometer and put a lot of time into this rebuild. It would have been frustrating to do that and then discover that the head was no longer useable.

The replacement head you note has a white needle. I'm going to have to do some digging to try and find a '47.

I appreciate the help.

Bill

If you are that concerned with the authenticity of the
restoration then you could always, with a little masking
you could shoot the plastic needle with a translucent red paint:
http://www.rakuten.com/prod/vht-sp8...d=18179&gclid=CLaA1_CqsL0CFYZAMgodsx0ArA

I've seen several of the reproduction instruments and unlike a
lot of the reproductions, they are almost perfect matches and
look very original. Cept they're not worn out and faded.

Denny Graham
Sandwich, IL

Looks like your needle shaft snapped off. Have not seen a 47 but all the other AD truck speedometers I've seen have the shaft extending beyond the dial once you pop the needle off. Looks like you may need a new speedometer mechanism. $130.00 to $165.00 depending on where you purchase.

Bill, you can find the speedo innards on E-Bay for $150.00 and change with shipping included. Look under 1947-1950 Chevrolet truck speedometer.

Fixit, best go back and reread from the beginning of the
thread, all of that's been covered.

dg