The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area The HiPo Shop aftermarket steering column length

I bought the CCP 400 (toyota) steering kit the other day. I need to buy a column in the near future.
I want to use the flaming river roaster column,(i'm thinking 28")
http://www.flamingriver.com/index.php/products/c0002/s0008/FR21022-28BK
but want to be sure before I spend the $500. on a column.
What did you guys use with the Toyota/CCP 400 box install?
If you used the original column, how long is it? When you cut the lower section,how much is sticking out from the firewall to the box?

Thanks Jeff

Try using a piece of broom handle, with your steering wheel or plywood disc attached as a " mock-up ". This lets you have wheel in correct position for your install, and measure correct column length.

Don't know what vehicle you are talking about but as Britcon says, sit in seat with mock up column/wheel, mount/mock steering box, figure a couple of ujoints and connection bar and should give good idea. Seems like you would want just enough to stick thru firewall so as to get minimum angles down to box. But if it's aligned, not a big worry. I have done this before but I already had a column and the got the box and ujoints and bar to mock it up. Cutting a stock column can be done but I don't think that is what you are asking how to do. you can't go too much by others unless they have the same column and truck and box and wheel.

28" sounds too short to me if it's an AD truck.
However,
I have a 33" aftermarket column, mated to the CPP Saginaw PS kit.
In my case , the process was to cut and fit the D-bar & borgeson joints being mated to a comfortable positioning of the column.
Mine is a column shift , too so maybe mine needed to be longer.
But, the main point is mock it up (so it's comfy), decide how far it needs to protrude thru the firewall, measure (3 times!) then place the order.

hi all, thanks for the input.
The broom handle thing sounds like the best way. Thanks again Jeff

18,
I was on the fence on spending $500+; new steering column, steering wheel, d-bar, and universal joint, in the end I was looking at about $1,000 bucks for it all. I settled for the 47-54 column and wheel from the swap meet forum. I used a column save from CPP and the d-bar and universal joints from flaming rivers.
This worked for me and it worked with a mustang II rack and pinion.
picture , picture, picture , picture

CPP Column Saver

If you go with an after market or original column and wheel, post some pics so we can see your progress. Someone may benefit from your endeavors.

Bread
.

I'm going through similar thoughts for my '52. After much debate, I've decided to keep the original column, steering wheel and shifter arm, but I'm running an AMC Pacer front end with a Chevy 350 and 700R4 tranny. I want the interior to look as if the truck is stock, until I pop the hood! I have a couple of original columns as well as a couple of steering shafts cut away from the steering box that I'll be using for a mock up. Hopefully that will also help me figure out how much D-bar I will need and how many U-Joints to pull it all together.

I would like to use the original column mostly for the classic look. The problem is its not comfy....I need a tilt to put the wheel "just right"
I know I can find a aftermarket tilt column cheaper than $500.but the flaming river roadster column is the only one on the market that has the 1 3/4" tube, classic bell, AND tilt.
I can use the original wheel( I would like to) and I may be able to use the original steering drop. The CCP steering kit comes with a rag joint so I don't need any "D" shafts or u joints.

http://www.flamingriver.com/index.php/products/c0002/s0008/FR21022-32BK
Thanks for all the replys Jeff

I have always purchased used tilts from the 60's. No key type. $125-$200 (Craigslist). Most all Chevy wheels fit all Chevy columns 40's to 80's + . Also, a rag joint, instead of Ujoint, will only work if it's lined up almost dead nuts. Rag joints are for vibration dampening only, not to function as a Ujoint. You probably need ujoints and a DD shaft.

Hey Bart, the CCP 400 series steering box I'm using is a CCP design of the Toyota style steering. It mounts in the same location as stock which allows you to use a rag joint to connect to the original column. The kit comes with a rag joint. You don't need shafts or u-joints with it. I have this kit already.
I'd be OK using used tilts from the 60's.... What length?

http://www.classicperform.com/Instructions/PDF/CP50006instructions.pdf

I didn't know the box mounted in same spot exactly, that's nice. As far as which column, I never really cared what length because I was using DD and ujoints and made it work without cutting column. If you do use a 60's column, you can possibly use Borgeson couplers with splined or DD shafts, with your rag, to adapt length. That won't be too much more money and you save a bundle on the column.

ok thanks for the info
jeff