The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area The Electrical Bay Chevy 3100 1951 - Starter disengages to quickly!

Hey guys!!

Let me tell a bit about myself first! I'm
Living in Sweden, but I'm Dutch. I'm 22 years old and bought my dad's old Chevy 3100 from 1951 with a 216 ci inline 6! It's has been standing in the garage for 2 years due to lack of time and a broken down starter.


Question
So I bought a new starter and a new ignition coil and now it almost starts.. but the starter disengages like 2 seconds too soon, so the engine coughs and dies. I managed to start it once, but after having it on 1500rpms for about a half a minute and i put it back to idle, it dies. The carburetor was set to its perfect tuning about 2 weeks before the last time we started it. so i dont think i have to tweak anything there. Is the starter or the engine to blame for the lack of starting?

I can try to record it when i try to start the engine, if you guys like to?



Thanks a lot!
Regards, Raoul

Why dont my links work properly?

I don't quite understand what you mean. Can't you just hold the starter on longer? If the solenoid is disengaging then it sounds like you could have a bad connection or bad solenoid.

Your '51 Chevy starter doesn't use a solenoid to engage the stsrters drive gear to the fly wheel, unless the starter has been replaced with a newer style. If your truck still uses the original 'stomp starter' than you hold the starter engaged as long as you keep your foot on the starter pedal.

It sounds like a fuel or timing issue.

You're in moderation. You can't do links. I usually fix them when I approve a post, but I must have missed yours. They're working now.

If the starter keeps spinning but does not turn the engine, then you have a defective starter drive on the replacement starter. Defective "reman" parts are not uncommon.

Oh yes I forgot to tell you guys, the replacement starter has an electrical switch it's from a newer Chevy 3100 (don't recall which year) I got some parts left of the old stomp starter, you guys think I should put som parts in that one to make it work? I can take pictures when I come home.

Raoul,
I have the same truck. My brake pedal was stuck all the way up. I couldn't depress it no matter how hard I pushed. I took it out and found that the piston was frozen solid in the cylinder so I replaced it.To answer your question:Disconnect the brake line where it threads into the Master Cylinder and remove the linkage that attaches the push rod at the MC. There are two bolts with nuts and washers that hold the MC to the frame. There is also a spacer. Remove these and you can place the cylinder on your bench.In the front of the cylinder is a locking spring or clip,remove that and the inside parts will be able to be removed. Beware of the spring and notice where all pieces were located. You need to inspect the cylinder. If it is pitted you need to hone it before putting the kit in. Lube everything with brake fluid and put it all back together.Any questions,feel free to ask.---Jack

Okay so now I'm frustrated.. I put the whole inside of the "new" starter into the old starter and it cranks the engine with the pedal on the floor, but it still disengages when the first explosion in one of the cylinder is made. What the...?! Is there a bendix gear on those newer starters? On the shaft inside the starter?

Stovebolt starters do not have a "Bendix". The gear that meshes with the flywheel has a one-way clutch built into it. It drives the engine when the starter is turning and freewheels to prevent overspeeding the starter motor once the engine starts until the driver can release the key or take his foot off the starter pedal. It's called a "starter drive" and it should have been replaced during the rebuilding process. It sounds like you got a bad one. Replace that part, which includes the collar the shift linkage fits, a spring, and the drive gear. They don't cost much and it's a simple fix.
Jerry

allright thank you! ordered a new bwd automative (I heard thats good american quality)

The "bendix" on the stomp starters is simply a one way clutch. Locked when turning in direction to start engine and free wheel in the other direction so running engine does not drive electric motor and prevent disengagement. Possible the mechanism is weak and not re-engaging after a cylinder fires.

Allright guys..

Im going crazy!

I ordered 2 starter drives because the firt one didnt have the right dimensions, but now the second one is wrong too!

got the BDW automotive Starter Drive SD207 first
then ordered the Standard Ignition Starter Drive SDN-1A

Both have the same demensions, they're to small and the hole that goes trough it is to tight aswell..

Which one should I get? (eBay link would be appriciated..)

Raoul: Has your truck been converted to 12 Volts? Sounds like you have mixed parts from a 6 Volt starter and a 12 Volt starter. They are different. The shaft diameter and the tooth count are different. You need to keep a 6 volt starter with a 6 volt flywheel. Or if you have a 12 volt fly wheel it needs a 12 volt starter. Use a bit of chalk and get under the truck. pull the cover off the fly wheel and count the teeth on the flywheel. 6 volt has 139 and the 12 volt has 168. The big Bendix gear is for 6 volt and the smaller one is for 12 volt. The teeth on the 6 volt are coarser than the 12 volt. It won't matter if you are putting a 6 volt starter in to a truck with a 12 volt system it will work just fine. But it must match the flywheel. When you know what starter you need then fix the right one with the right parts and it will be less stressful. I don't know what vendors work in the E.U. so not much help on that part of the issue.

Hey steve

Yes its on 12Volts now.
flywheel has 139 teeth and the old drive was larger than the new ones i got. So i guess the starter and flywheel is the 6volt option still.

So i guess i'll have to find the 6v starter drive then.. cant find it on ebay, and cant find it in sweden either.. If anyone knows ehere i can order it? as long the total cost doestn exceed $100 im glad. Just want it to work...

One on eBay now.

Filling Station.

Thanks, placed a bid. Hope the rebuild is good quality,
if i dont win it, i found this:

Chevsofthe40s.com/.....

Doesnt say 6Volt, but looks the same on the image..
Does that work?

Oh wait i saw that the one from the filling station is 45 dollars, i misread and thaught is was 145 dollars :P I'll take thatone incase i dont win the one from ebay. Thanks!

Nice! I hope this solves your issue.

I hope so too! Will keep you guys updated!

The filling station couldnt sell me that drive for 45 bucks, but they had an other one thats more expensive than a rebuild starter. But i won the startdrive on ebay, so in 2 weeks I'll know f that works!