The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Driveline old bushings out-new ones in...NOPE!

Attempting to install new rear spring shackles on a '53 1/2 ton. Got the old bushings driven out but the new ones do not want to go in. Someone has suggested heating the area, then driving the new bushings in. What is the correct way? HELP, please!

You have to "pull" them in. I made a rig from washers and all-tread rod.

If you have the springs out, a press is the best way to go. pounding on them may distort them.

Lacking a press Threaded rod or a couple of bolts are best.

use a piece of threaded rod the diameter of the pin (too small and the rod will stretch or break). Put a nut and heavy washer on one end, put it through the bushing and through the spring, 2 very heavy washers or a piece of steel with a hole in it and a nut on the other end. Then cut the rod to length.

Use an impact wrench with a deep well socket to draw it in. When the rod hits the bottom of the socket. go to the nut on the other side and pull it in the rest of the way.

Try freezing the bushing and use a tool like this to pull/push them in and a little WD-40-like lubricant?

dsummers: Just did this on my 52 1/2 ton. I used a 1/2 in bolt and some heavy "cut" washers. Put a washer on the bolt head, slide that through the spring. Place the bushing on the end sticking out the other side with some anti-seize on the bushing. Put 1 or 2 washers on the bolt sticking past the bushing and a nut. Line it all up and start to tighten that nut. Pressed in like it was made to be there.When it is pressed in I put a 3/4 inch pipe union on the short side and pulled it to center. Did it all under the truck. No pounding required. Would have been faster with an impact air wrench but this way I could get it started and "feel" as it went. I did start with a 3/8 bolt but broke it in two. So I went with the 1/2 bolt and got some spares. About 6 inch long with fine threads and spare nuts as well. Total cost was about $8 at the local Home store.

I'm acquiring an assortment of plumbing fittings for these projects... I found an 1.5" T works as a 'receiver' to pull the old bushing into (plus it has a 'window' to check progress), and instead of washers which tend to bend some a 3/4" to 1.5" reducer works good to shift the force of the nut from the center to the perimeter where the bushing rides.

Thanks for the tips/advice. I'm new at this and am amazed at your knowledge and willingness to help those of us less experienced. Thank you again. I'll try the suggestions as soon as our weather lets up in a couple of days.

I saw a post that claimed he did it with a bench vice. I said, "What?" to myself. Then I clicked the pic and it showed the guy under his truck with a bench vice (without the bench attached). Whatever works, I always say.

I used very large c clamps to put mine back in

Oh shoot, Jim's post reminded me that I did use my bench top press to press the bushings in. Pulling them in would have been my second option. I did pull them into the frame bracket/mount/pivot/whatever.

I took my springs to the bench and used the bench vice. Quick and easy.

Freezing the bushings will greatly reduce installation force thus preventing deformation of the end/thread.