The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Grinding in all four gears

Just dropped a 235 58-62 in my 49 1/2 ton. Used original from bellhousing out. Got everything in an noticed i had no play on my clutch, so i adjusted the off set rod to give me 3/4 play at top of clutch, tried to run through gears and all of them gring real bad. So i startd re-
adjusting off set rod and lost all play in clutch, the nut started getting hard to turn and i am getting too close to the clutch fork with my first and reverse linkage. Is it possible that the clutch pedal link is too short? Sure would appreciate and advice on this problem.

Did you use the throw-out bearing (clutch release bearing) that was originally used with whichever pressure-plate you are using?

There are two lengths of throw-out bearings.

It sounds like the clutch disc is in backwards. If the center hub springs touch the flywheel bolts the clutch will drag no matter how far you adjust the throwout bearing. This causes chattering, gear grinding, and usually a lot of difficulty getting the transmission into gear without stopping the engine. The side of the disc with the spring hub sticking out the furthest is supposed to face AWAY from the flywheel.
Jerry

I doubt that its a linkage problem. I think that it is something internal like Jerry suggests. Was the clutch from the original engine or from the 235. Sometimes discs get bent from people using force while stabbing the transmission.

I may be mistaken but i do believe that the teeth are facing away from engine towards transmission

Yes everything that i put back in was from the 216 and seemed to be in good shape. When i slid the 235 back in i had no poroblem meshing with the transmission.

I have only tried starting the truck in neutral, when the engine is off i can run through the gears with no problem at all.

One of the most common mistakes I've seen is the backwards disc problem. There's only about 1/4" of depth difference but it's just enough to cause the exact problem you're describing. I've seen it at least 50 times since the mid-1950's.
Jerry

How stupid am I? Is there any way of checking this mistake short of pulling engine back out???

"Ignorance can be fixed- - - -stupid is forever!" The very best way to learn a lesson is to make a big, labor-intensive mistake! Unfortunately, the only way to be sure is to drop the pressure plate and check the position of the disc. I learned my lesson the hard way on a 58 Chevy Delray coupe with a 235 and a 3 speed, back in 1964!
Jerry

Well I guess i have my day planned out for me tomorrow. I do thank you for your info and will let u all know how this all works out.

Put me in line with Jerry, I've made that mistake myself many years ago.

The old clutch discs used to be clearly marked "flywheel side" which made it pretty simple. However, I've got a 56 Ford that a guy that owed me some money put a clutch in. I don't know if the disc was marked, but I clearly told him how to do it. He didn't listen, he still owes me money and I am right back where I started, only now I'm angry on top of it.

Its probably easiest to just pull the transmission to check things out rather than pull the engine out.

The total movement from engaged to released is only about 3/16 inch. The offset in the later friction disk is quite a bit more than the total available movement at the throw-out bearing. My vote is on the disk. I would pull the trans and then the presser plate. Take a good look at the throw-out bearing just to be sure. Let us know what you find.

I did have the disk in backwards changed it around and still having the exact same problem. I have heard mentioned that my throwoutn bearing may need to be changed for a diffrent size, how many sizes are there and will i need to go longer? I have adjusted the off set rod so far back that my first and reverse linkage is rubbing the clutch fork. throwout is moving but not much. I am totally lost at what to do now.

The two sizes of release bearings that I referred-to above are:

1 7/8" and 1 1/4"

Hey Steve H, when I took tranny back out I did take a good look at disk an bearing. I did not see anything obvious but actually I did not know what to look for. Disk did not look worn, bearing did not look damaged, turned easily, I regreased it and went in fine. Is there something specific I need to be looking for? I am going to take it it back apart today

What I have in there now is 1 7/8, would the 1 1/4 give me even less movement than what i have?

You'd have more adjustment-arm movement, but less range-of-movement of the pressure plate.

This discussion is double-posted:
https://www.stovebolt.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1008529#Post1008529