The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Interiors dynamat anyone

[quote=Hot Rod John]I cut an opening in the sound deadening material and use foil tape to seal the edges. I then cut another piece of sound deadening material to fit into the hole, thus plugging the hole, and again use foil tape to seal the edges of the plug. Then when you need access to the access panel you simply pull out the "plug" of deadening material.

Hope that makes sense

I think it does. Does the rubber mat just lay loosely over the top?

And are you using the foil bubble wrap variety?

I asked myself this same question while planning my install. In the end, I did not want the silver lining look on the floor of the truck each time I pulled up the floor mat to check the battery. So, I did not apply the sound deadener on the floor. I Stopped at toeboard to floor transition. I used 3M Body Shutz on the underside of the floor. Body Shutz is an affective sound deadener according to 3M.

Here is photo showing where I stopped.

I used a product called "The Insulator" http://zeronoise.com/automotive_noise_control/thermo_acoustic_blanket_I12.htm and then installed carpet over it, but don't see why the mat wouldn't work too. Some of the mats, like the ones from ACC, come with jute padding..

and you don't want to lay those jute backed mats directly on the bare [or painted] metal floors, condensation from the temp difference of the metal-to-interior gets trapped in the jute and is why there's so much rot in these old floors

Bill

I did like HR John, cutting around and sealing to the edges with foil tape.
I don't find it as permanent as I'd like but then... I didn't want duct tape.

Making sure I could access the trans and brake cyl covers without getting PO'd or embarrassed was my guiding principle.

I have a 58 and my floor was just bare metal. I live in the Atlanta area and I am wondering if any of these products create condensation between the floor and the insulation. My other question is do these products make a larger amount of difference than carpet and a heavy floor mat since when driving the most heat and air hits the firewall and toe board. I bought a 71 in 72 and have a factory rubber mat with the insulating material next to the cab floor and when it was pulled back about 5 years ago I had a lot of rust from the inside down and this truck is still all original inside.

6571 [no name?], as I pointed out above, the stick on things prevent that condensation, the fabric insulation on the factory mats absorbs and holds it - the condensation is caused by the warmer and moister interior air against the metal floor, which is at outside ambient temp, another way to reduce that effect is to undercoat the floor well, but having a good full vapor barrier [the stick on elastomeric things] on top creates a total separation, same reason it's used in houses

Bill

Good questions and a great reason to start with 2 or 3 coats of epoxy primer...
For one, the reflectix isn't water permeable so no absorbing and holding moisture against the meta/paint like Bill was pointing out and your 71 demonstrated.
Second the temp difference between the cab interior and the metal of the cab is less (by being insulated)and the metal doesn't act to condense the moisture in the air that the jute absorbs that the dirt sticks to where the rust grows and gets a new home E-I-E-I-O.

actually CASO, Reflectix traps condensation between it and the floor, I should get a pic of my 58 floor what prevents condensation is a total seal, maybe if the Reflectix was taped around the edges with the appropriate aluminum tape it'd slow that down, but the tape itself would be transmitting the temp difference then

Bill

This is some great info guys. I wish I had asked this before I installed my carpet but it's already in now.Do you think they still use the fabric that you mentioned above in todays trucks that have the rubber mats. I have a 98 2500 that I've had since 2000 with a rubber mat and it is not undercoated. I wonder? Who knows , I may just get a wild hair one day and rip everything back out and start all over again.I will never get finished with this old truck, but I love every minute of it.

Yes I get what you're saying Bill, I did seal the edges and the Reflectix has a thick layer of glass sphere 'skin' on top of 3 coats of epoxy primer between it and the metal.
Whatever happens I felt I avoided the weak points of the 'original' system and added a modern level of protection at the metal/epoxy layer. Beyond that I just went for materials that can be easily removed without destroying things in the process

Well I guess I won't have to do any testing after all. Looks
like the test's that the guy did on YouTube pretty much
confirmed what you guys have found that have used the Peel and
Seal. Actually it did a lot better, in fact all of them did a
lot better than the Dynamat. 200° is a bit extreme, only down
side I can now see is the smell.
When I do get around to doing the cab, I hadn't planned on
covering the entire inside with sound deadener, just as was
mentioned, some in the larger flat panels to stop the drumming.
DG

38 bucks

I was looking for a product for the roof of my '55 Grumman and was reading this thread, as well as the others. I noticed some products were not recommended for the roof because of the high temperatures. I liked the sound of the Blueskin. The spec sheet did not have a high temp listed, so I contacted the company and they said "it is not recommended or warranted" for my application.

Just thought I'd pass that on...

has anyone tried lizzard skin paint on sound deadner and insulation?

http://www.lizardskin.com

Just curious

Chris

Bill, that is a very good point to consider. Steve

Bill, I'm referring to the floor condensation problem by using jute.