The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Driveline Help/Advice on Spring,Shackle, Spring Seat

Next on my list is repairing the rear springs on my '47 1/2 ton. Following the tips listed in the forums, Ive successfully removed the rt. rear spring. Previous owners never heard of grease apparently. Things were pretty worn. I need some advice.
Shackle pins were worn into the lower spring leaf AND the rear support brace. Both are somewhat oval. I'm investigating new springs and/or replacing just the main lower leaf. My Concern is the riveted rear main support. I'm sure the right way is to remove it, ream it and install a sleeve. I'm wondering if anyone has tried brazing/mig welding to fill the worn section and then just reaming/filing close to tolerance and then install the bushing. Anyone have suggestions for my dilemma?

New bushings won't fix it?
If it's the actual spring eye that's wallowed out I'd find that a reason to find new ones and make a machete'...

I've considered trying to find 'new' ones. That would mean of course "new" used with the old ones chiseled off etc. Was wondering if anyone had ever tackled this another way....by thinking out of the box? It's probably the best way to go, but one I certainly don't relish doing. I hope there are more ideas out there for me to consider. Thanks for the input.

I was hoping by adding some 'support" via the brass/weld I would give support to the actual bushing once it was installed. I will try to post a picture to show the old bushing wear and the rear hanger. I'm sure I can press the new bushing in but just thought the bushing should have support all the way around it like it originally was. I wonder if the new bushing would be strong enough to hold the pin true and in place without distortion of the bushing. (Does that make sense?)

Most new bushings are steel backed and do not mind if there is a little void behind them in one spot. You could fill the void with JB WELD.

I think Dave has the right solution - just be sure to get the spring perch clean and allow the JB Weld to cure properly, then ream the hole to the correct size. If your spring leaf eye is worn, it will need to be replaced. Good luck with your project!

I have the exact same model, but 1949... I'm also about to do the same work.. I hopefully will be able to use the old springs but if not, the Filling Station (and other suppliers I expect) can provide a new set of springs...both sides...for about $325 for a 49 anyway... I'll check the price for '47

Geez, I think you guys made my day! Yes the spring eyes are worn. Checking now to see if I can just have that main leaf rebuilt locally or if it's best just to replace the entire spring considering it's age and abuse it's taken.
Dogface: Noticed too Jim Carter has the springs.USA made. Wonder if one supplier is better? Have to check if perhaps the springs have busings installed. Seems to me I saw that was the case in someones catalog....someplace. Appreciate greatly the good news!!!
:-)

Yes, Jim has good products too.. The Filling Station is just closer for me, fast service and shipping... What ever works for you. Glad to help

After ALOT of checking locally, seems either they don't want to deal with it or can't. So I'm simply going to buy new. Less work and worry in the long run. Now to tell my wife! ;-)

Good choice I think..Jim. I may end up doing that too...depending on what I find when all are out on the table... From FS they are $375 per set for 47-55 (first series).. Sounding good already....at my age, what's a little more money anyway.... LOL..

You will be happier and have a better piece of mind knowing the springs are new. I am lucky I have a local supplier that will still rivet them together as original. All of the vendors sell new spring eyebolts, shackles, rubber, everything you need.

If you are keeping it original with the enclosed (torque tube) driveline, you are good to go with just buying them for the original configuration. If you have any plans of going to an open driveline to increase speed, the leafsprings have the center bolt in a different place so plan ahead if that's a possibility. Good luck with the wife! :P

Ordered new springs today. After all the comments given, the best alternative is to replace the old crusty springs. That should help me enjoy this daily driver in its orginal condition. Now to get the axel/frame cleaned and painted. BTW, my wife approved!!! hehe

If you play your cards right, they normally do. hehe. Just remember who is the most important 'approver' in your life. Check out my area of the bolt bucket to see what your frame could look like. Mine is not the best for sure but its a good non-college try!

Interesting.... I just ordered new as well for my 49. I have no clue what the real condition of my old ones are and like Jim I'll feel better with new metal. I don't know if they come painted, then assembled or painted at all. I decided to now do the poly liner on new springs...maybe that's a mistake. Also getting new bolts, shackles and bushings... Going to tube shocks as well. Heck...it's only money... yeah, right...LOL

Sounds like you did EXACTLY like me. On this newest resto, I painted the leaf springs as a whole with epoxy primer, urethane primer, sealer, gloss black single stage urethane. Two things.. there is no amount of cleaning that is enough, but once you have taken the springs to a car wash and sprayed the CRAP out of them with detergent and water, take back to the shop and use a metal toothbrush and gasoline to get even more crud, then a naptha based cleaner to prep it for paint, you MAY have it clean enough.

Then, after all the coatings, what happens is, the paint breaks at each leaf by itself and you hope it doesn't crack or chip. Mine came out great. Very satisfied with the procedure. You can see how it looks sorta on the bolt bucket listed in my sig line. You are going the right route in my opinion. The foundation of ANYTHING in life is the most important. Do it right and you have something to build on.

Well Fellas,the new springs should be here tomorrow from JC AND the Srping seat bushing seals from Steele Rubber. Decided to go that route due to the comments about the 'durometer' which I understand refers to the seals hardness. Hopefully they will last another 67 years. I don't want to take the things apart again! So with everything new re the rear springs, I should be good to go. BTW, MANY THANKS for all the input/suggestions that helped me with this project. I probably will be back for more words of wisdom!!