hey! I thought I sorted you guys out! grin

Jim - if you don't have that terminal on the side, I'd be betting you have the actuator [maybe the whole starter] from a 6V system, which didn't have the resistor, so didn't need the bypass - if you have that bypass wire [it's actually "violet"] on the main lug then the bypass line to the switch has power all the time, and any time the switch is on, if you have the single position 6 cyl switch [no ACC position on those switches, Stuart, just OFF/ON] - do a measurement on the coil with the key on and see if it's 12V [shouldn't be with a resistor]

depressing the starter puts power to the bypass terminal, which goes to the switch - the wire to the resistor [from the switch] gets power from the batt terminal on the switch when the switch is on ... the wire to the coil gets power from the other side of the resistor, but when the starter is engaged, it also gets power from the bypass wire, which hooks to the same switch terminal as the resistor [when "on"] - don't depress the starter switch, NO power from that side terminal - don't have the key on, NO power to the coil - put a jumper from the battery to the coil+, start the truck with the key off eek

I spliced up the parts of the wiring diagram, appropriate for all 12V 6 cyl models here

full voltage from the side terminal [when engaged], thru the switch [when on] to the coil .... power from the ammeter line to the resistor any time the key is on [parallel "short circuited" by the bypass wire]

Bill


Moved over to the Passing Lane

"When we tug a single thing in nature, we find it attached to the rest of the world" ~ John Muir
"When we tug a single thing on an old truck, we find it falls off" ~ me
Some TF series details & TF heater pics