ok guys - when I was out I had to go near the auto electric shop I've dealt with since forever - guy who's one of the crowd around here my age that all started our own businesses about the same time, we help each other out grin

I asked him why those 2 wires went the same place from the regulator and how it should be

terminals #1[F] & 2[R] go to the alternator, which is the oldest GM style, that he called the Delcotron, the #3 wire is for the accessory power, and connects back to the BATT position on the switch, the #4 wire if the truck has the idiot light connects to the light, then to IGN1 [as shown on Cletis' diagram] - it's the exciter voltage, so without a light, it needs to go where it can get batt volts when the key is on, which can still be IGN, or ACC - doesn't matter if it has voltage all the time, so it can be combined with the wire from terminal #3, but MUST be switched so it's off when the truck is off or it'll drain the battery

so I looked in my mound of pictures and voila! I did have that setup recorded which is this , I think from a diagram for trucks with gauges

he also said this alternator isn't an SI, which can be internal or externally regulated, or a CS, which is always internally regulated, but can also be externally or internally excited, which is the bit that requires the diode or not [respectively] .... I left with the opinion reinforced that he's the man! grin

Bill


Moved over to the Passing Lane

"When we tug a single thing in nature, we find it attached to the rest of the world" ~ John Muir
"When we tug a single thing on an old truck, we find it falls off" ~ me
Some TF series details & TF heater pics