I agree 100% with all the guys above. Here is what I would do. It's time to carefully troubleshoot this thing. To trouble shoot and see if it's gas or spark, you have to wait until you are sure the carb and all the intake and chambers are DRY DRY DRY. Then try to start it with no choke and don't touch the gas pedal. Just hit the key.(I recommend each time you try starter, count to 6) If nothing, then drip a tiny bit of gas into the carb throat with something that only lets about 5 small drops, try again, then 10 drops. Notice any change? Then pump pedal once, try again, pump three times, try again. Work your way from dry, all the way to choking it, slowly increasing fuel. This "hand feed" method takes the carb completely out of the equation at first. If it never fires with this method, it's not the carb. It's spark/timing related. Spark should be white or bluish and snap an 1/8" gap like lightning. Orange does not sound right.
Sometimes we get used to a starting procedure on an old carb by pumping and choking. Then when it's rebuilt/cleaned, will still do all that and flood the hell out of it. That's what you were doing and that's why all the leaking (and the stuck needle), but seems like you have settled down a little. Try the dry start and work up and see if you notice any improvement. This will identify or eliminate the carb/fuel supply. If you see that it's not gas, then Check all wiring including coil ground, timing, coil, points, condenser, rotor, cap, plug wires..... In other words, all the advice given by the other guys. If NONE of the cylinders are firing, it's probably back at the Dizzy, not plugs or plug wires. Not sure what "sputtering" means to you? Spitting thru carb or actually firing a little? Or no firing? Need to know exactly what it does at each stage of "hand feed".

Right is right, even if everyone is against it, and wrong is wrong, even if everyone is for it. - William Penn