you can just do any old thing, as you've already done, and eventually you might hit on something that seems to works, but it'd be best to do it correctly - each terminal on the ignition switch has a particular purpose, without knowing the circuits and what happens inside the switch you're flying blind
there originally was a wire [brown] from the ignition switch to the resistor ["input" end] - this wire is always 'hot' when the key is on - there is a 2nd wire [green] from the switch to the other end ["output" end] of the resistor [some years direct to coil] - that wire is only hot when the starter is engaged,
bypassing the resistor to give full voltage to the coil when cranking - the 2nd green wire on the output end of the resistor goes to the coil - currently you apparently have the 2nd wire from the switch correct so the coil gets voltage when cranking and the engine fires - because you took the resistor out of the circuit, when you let off the starter, there is no longer any power to the coil because you "interrupted" the brown wire that normally supplies power when running .... this is the classical symptom of a burned out resistor
run your new 10 ga wire from the coil to the same terminal on the ignition switch that the brown wire went to, the original bypassing wire from the starter side terminal to the switch [violet] and on to the output of the resistor won't be needed, you'll have full voltage to the coil anytime the key is on -
foot start switch connectionsBill
