I used Boyoconners' Tech tip. I used a 1/2 inch bolt about 4 1/2 inch long. The head of the bolt slides into the frame and spring eyes with no interference. The shoulder on the bolt head will not pull into the bushing at all. Why change from the 3/8 by 6 carriage bolt that he suggested? Cause that was what I had after I broke my only remaining carriage bolt. The larger bolt allowed me to apply torque with no worry about breaking the bolt. Four bushings removed with no problem. Work? Yes. Problems? No. Nice use able Tech tip. Thanks. Putting the bushings back in was just as nice. New cut flat washers protected the bushing as it was pressed into the spring and frame. With the bushing pressed into place I used the pipe fitting to center the bushing in the frame and the spring. Simple, effective and safe. I did use liberal amounts of anti-seize to ease the new bushings and make it possible to remove them if needed at some later date. Now, I just have to figure why the springs don't line up square with the frame. It appears the springs are "toed in" to the frame. This pulls the shackles out of alignment up and down. Now should I look at the "U" bolts on the axle? Still need to pull the rear pivot bushings on the spring. I don't see any damage or bending under there so still hoping this will cure the lurch. Any ideas to look for? Thanks again.

Steve H