Thanks for the replies, info, and link.
I don't believe the coil is bad. I reference an old MOTORS text and did some simple ignition tests on the coil:
With the ignition switch on, I used a tester I made with a 6 volt bulb. To test the primary winding, one probe was touched to the distributor terminal of the coil and the outside of the coil. The bulb lit.
The next test, the ignition switch was turned on with the breaker points closed. The high tension cable was removed from the center of the dizzy with the end held about 3/8" from a clean spot on the engine. An insulated screwdriver was used to open and close the breaker points. A spark jumped from the wire to the engine, indicating the "coil and other units are in good condition".
The coil was next tested for grounded wirings with a 110 volt test lamp I made. The coil was isolated with one test probe inserted in the coil tower and the other probe on an outside unpainted surface. The 110 volt light bulb did not light, and no sparks were emitted, indicating the coil was not defective.
I read in MOTORS that sometimes a faulty ignition switch can be interpretted as a bad coil. To bypass the ignition switch, a lead was hooked from the battery cable on the starter to the battery terminal on the coil. The connection was tested with the 6 volt bulb tester. I noted that the bulb lit, but flickered. The fuel pump postive lead is also connected to the battery side of the coil. It was disconnected and the connection was again tested. The bulb lit fully.
The bulb flickering could be interpretted as a drain on the system caused by the fuel pump.
More tests and considerations will be made, regarding the fuel pump and such, and you will be informed of the results.
Thanks again.
