Oh sorry,I was just about out the door, and ran out of time. But all the major cam manufacturers have it on their websites. They aren't all in agreement whether it is OK to use multi weight or not, but they do all say a light oil, I used brad penn break in oil it was somewhat expensive, but not nearly as expensive as my engine. It is very important to get it started mostly immediately. After the 20 minute break-in they are all pretty much in agreement to change the oil. I changed mine after the 20 minute break-in and 500 miles later, cutting the oil filter open to check for signs of distress. The reason I was given from the tech fella at crane not to use synthetic for break in is (this is a semi-quote) "it doesn't provide enough traction to spin the lifters for a proper break-in" and from what I can gather is after 5000 miles you can use the synthetic, but here again look it up on one or two of the websites and make your own call. VR-1 does come in different weights, but I only found the heavier weights, Keep in mind that most "racing" oils if truly formulated for racing don't have much if any detergent in them as it messes with the film strength. VR-1 I believe has a significant amount, look up an article by some fella named vidman, I found it on vcca, it gives a lot of information. I am partial to 10w30. If you read that article along with one from a fella named bob olree, it gives you what weight oils work properly at what temp, but since I don't have a clue as to what temerature the oil gets to in these things. I can offer no scientific advice, however the two references I provided will be able to offer it in abundance. And if you have a little laser gun thermometer that you can read the temp at the oil pan I think that would provide you with that information, and if you do let us know what you have found out.
Last edited by brokenhead; 04/12/2013 8:04 PM.
