Set up a three wire alternator ... really four.
What I see in one of my hotrod wiring books is,
IF you have an ammeter and External regulator.
One wire (8 or 10 ga) from the HOT+ 12V starter ''big battery wire'' terminal to the + post side of the ammeter.
Neg. side of ammeter to: both 'Battery post' @ key switch and 'BAT' post of alternator.
. The ext. voltage regulator has 4 posts: F, #2, #3, #4 .
'F' on alternator to 'F' on regulator.
'R' on alternator to #2 on regulator.
'IGN' of key switch to #3 on regulator.
Idiot lamp on dash to #4 of regulator and 'IGN' of key switch.
This way your ammeter tells you the draw and when it charges. The idiot lamp does not come 'on' until you turn on the key because it gets it's power through the key switch when turned on. The other side of the idiot lamp goes to #4 post @ voltage regulator to complete it's circuit. Always (upgrade) use a larger gauge wire to the battery from the alt'r 'BAT' terminal. Note: gauge depends on location of battery.
Make ALL connections solid or solder & heat shrink. Remove those cheap plastic colored things off solderless terminals. Is that about right.... ?
SO guys my querrie is:
What IF you don't have an ammeter...but do have a voltmeter.
Run the 8 or 10 gauge wire from the starter HOT +12v to the 'BAT' on the alternator...directly to the 'BAT' of the alternator???
Run the voltmeter off the 'IGN' of the key switch post?
Run a large gauge wire from the starter HOT +12V terminal to the 'BAT' of the ignition switch?
Leave everything else as is.
I assuming that if you have an internal regulator system that the same applies only the regulator is built into the alternator and no mounting of the ext. regulator is needed??
