yeah get a book, that way you know it is right, if you have the #1 piston at TDC and the flywheel is on the pointer it, is right as far as cam timing, since the flywheel mark shows up TDC for exhaust as well as compression the trick comes when you try to set the ignition up 180 degrees out. THAT is something you need to get sorted out before you try and start your engine. You want the engine to start within 3 or 4 revolutions, whereupon once you achieve oil pressure you IMMEDIATELY commence your 20 minute cam break in period. Don't think you will get away with cranking, and cranking, recharge the battery, fiddle around with something or other, then try again. The odds are pretty good you will lose your cam if you do that. Go to several of the cam manufacturers websites and read their cam break in procedure. (they are all pretty much identical) and follow EVERY step. This is very important if you don't want to learn why it is very useful to have the bolts coming in from the outside. You have to follow the steps exactly, you cannot substitute well worded questions to the forum AFTER the fact. This cam thing apparently has come to light after the somewhat recent EPA mandate removing zinc and phosphorus (phospate?) from the oil. Phosphorus by the way is what you are after not the zinc. The zinc is part and parcel of ZDDP, the P portion of which is phosphorus. Also read an article by Bob Olree concerning this matter, he was (is?) the lubrication guru at GM, and is recognized as almost without peer in this field. Which is also where you will find the same information I have given you. By the way match marks on things you have to reassemble in a certain orientation work pretty well
Last edited by brokenhead; 11/26/2012 7:16 AM.
