ok - more specific from this govt trained electronics tech: if ya got wires to shorten, or a mess from a p.o. to neaten up, then electrically speaking and safety-wise, twist, solder and heat shrink any home made joints. if ya want easy, not necessarily permanent or safe, then use any kinda crimp connector available and please use the proper tool for the type connector.

if ya want "factory" looking work, get the proper harness, as from the factory there were rarely any actual "splices". those bakelite/ bullet connectors may be "period correct", but GM didn't use them that I've seen. look around the RI wiring site and you'll find a variety of connectors labeled "GM type", and they're probably all solder-on. also true 'friction tape' is not electrically insulating, tho' used back then to bundle wires into 'cables'.

fatfenders - so what if there's a 'rigid spot' - jealous? the solder joint needn't be long, and properly done won't be affected by normal truck operation any more than any bullet or spade connector, crimped or soldered. twisted wires that are taped and not soldered is trouble waitin to happen.

Bill


Moved over to the Passing Lane

"When we tug a single thing in nature we find it attached to the rest of the world" John Muir
"When we tug a single thing on an old truck, we find it falls off" me
Some TF series details & TF heater pics & Rust-a-holics Unanimous parking lot