This morning after carefully inquiring about "safely" putting Lucille up on four jack stands, which ultimately happened, I removed all her tires and drums to inspect the entire brake system. So much easier to do it this way. I did find that both front brake adjustment wheels were not resting on the wheel cylinder casting and the adjustment was totally off. The adjustment screw attached to the star wheel was totally screwed "in" in some places. The rear brakes were adjusted pretty close to where they should be. I got the front brake adjusting star wheels up against the wheel cylinder casting, like they should be. Then I went around and further adjusted the fit between the brake drums and shoes until I felt that they were as snug as I dare make them. You know, spin the drum and feel a slight drag on each one. Then I adjusted the push rod on the M/C so I could feel it wiggle a bit. It was too tight. My wife helped me bleed the rear brakes. No air at all. In fact I don't think there is air in the system because I don't get a spongy pedal. I didn't bleed the front brakes. I didn't have a metric wrench to fit the front wheel cylinder bleed valve. Don't know why there is a 3/8 inch bleed valve on the rear wheel cylinders and some metric size on the front??
OK, after all this monkeying around, the brake pedal height from the toe board is 7 1/2 inches. I don't get a hard pedal until it is 4 1/2 inches from the toe board. I don't understand. Is it just because I'm making adjustments when the brake system is cold. I'm thinking that when the brake system heats up the hard pedal will be higher. Right? I'm confused about where to go next.


"Lucille" ..... Proud Member of the "Southern Stovebolts"

David Wolff
1946 Chevy 1/2-ton
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