Hi Ron and Chris,
You've got to remember that my engine block has been drilled and plugged to convert it to the full-flow filteration system which uses the 1/2" oil hose. The bypass system found in a non-drilled engine, uses a 1/8" ID line that is available from most of the online suppliers specifically for bypass filter setups. Your stock block is threaded for 1/8"NPT fittings. The relocation spin-on filter mounts are all threaded for 1/2NPT fittings....you'd have to reduce down to 1/8NPT at the filter and fabricate your own hoses. This is doeable but I question the need for adding a spin-on filter with plumbing that is going to have to worm around your exhaust system. Remember, the bypass system filter only 10% of the oil flow at one time. My concern is the pressure loss to the bearings while you're running a bunch of plumbing to a filter that isn't even going to be optimized between oil changes.
I've proved that plugging the existing filter holes will improve your oil pressure by 5-7 pounds and find that I'd rather have good oil pressure to the engine bearings as opposed to having a filter than only marginally filters the oil. Changing the new modern oils every 2-3K is cheaper then replacing a set of bearings and a cam.
As for the second part of your question there is not any way of regulating the pressure bleed-off from the relocated filter on a stock bypass filter system on the 235 engine unless you plug it. Using the 3/4 X16 threaded mount with a FoMoCo filter which has a built-in bypass, you can maintain oil pressure if the filter becomes clogged in a modified full-flow system.
If it were mine I'd plug it, smile when I saw the improvement in the oil pressure and just enjoy the drive.
Dave
