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7 members (1955 1 Series, Rudedog53, wilbur53, Oswald, Phak1, Charles in CA, Stewart2),
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Mod | | | Forums66 Topics128,181 Posts1,057,191 Members48,465 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Aug 2011 Posts: 835 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Aug 2011 Posts: 835 | For more years than I care to remember, I have had weak vacuumn wipers, a leaky carburetor, and I have to pour gas down the carb to start the truck after it has been sitting a day.
I'm not sure why I have to pour gas into the carb. It will start if I don't do this and crank for about 60 sec. I assume there is a bad check valve in the fuel pump, or some problem in the carb that makes the gas go away.
Anyway, after suffering for 39 years here is my plan to deal with all this:
I'm going to replace the Rochester carb with a Carter YF 2100s. This weekend if I get 'er rebuilt.
I have bought a double acting fuel pump which I hope will help with starting and the wiper situation.
I have a couple of questions.
What is the best way to run the vacuum lines from the fuel pump? Seems like I saw some drawing where they were run under the front of the engine and then up. (Engine is a 235)
What diameter lines are used for these vacuum lines?
Can I run the pump without connecting the vacuum lines? can I plug the ports on the pump if I do this? I drive the truck most days, and it may be a while before I can install the lines.
The new pump has a glass bowl sediment filter. I already have an aftermarket glass bowl filter at the carb. Any downside to having both? Or it this just redundant?
Thanks for any thoughts.
Kurt | | |
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