Sorry Tim, I should have snapped a picture when I had the driver's seat assembled but out of the truck. It was such a mad scramble yesterday getting them completed that I neglected the pictures until the project was done. I had the assembly manual, your pictures, and a picture that is a factory drawing out for consultation when putting it all together. I looked at the assembly manual and made a list of all of the hardware trying to get an idea of what all fasteners were the same by comparing the listed part numbers. Then I tried to take that list to the master parts guide to get details but the numbers did not show up. I had to "wing it". It involved going to the hardware store to get different lengths of all bolts until I determined exactly what the perfect bolt would be.

Let me try and explain the "unison" part. Think of the lower seat cushion as 3 parts. The bottom frame which sits on the seat pan and is mounted securely, the upper frame which is the plane that you sit on, and both are separated by "suspension coil springs". Reasoning all of this out, in a normal seat, the seat back is also mounted solid to the seat frame so that when the seat bottom compresses, your back actually slides up and down across the seat back. In this unison seat, the seat back actually bolts to a hinge plate that mounts to the upper plane of the seat bottom cushion. The upper part of the back cushion has those pivot bars that allow it to travel up and down within the seat frame letting the back cushion travel with your back when the lower cushion compresses preventing that "rub". Then there is the (as the upholstery guy put it) an "overly engineered" flapper valve in the bottom of the driver's seat lower cushion to "control rebound". A pretty slick system when you reason it out.

On my seats, someone had welded up the hinge plate and it was at an odd angle and trying to poke through the back of the seat cover. I think someone was trying to weld a split in the spring frame. I had to take a cutting wheel on a dremel and cut that weld loose to get the correct movement. The suspension bars have the bushings going into the bar in opposite directions on both end of the bar. They actually hook to the metal seat back and then to the seat frame. I used washers at every "rub point to try and increase the ability to move without wear points". The assembly manual shows some "optional" spacers but I have not seen them on any of the seat sets that I have pictures of. I just kept looking at pictures, bolting up everything, and measuring the width to make sure everything would come out correct. It was an exercise in trial and reasoning. There are fasteners that are supposed to be phillips head where currently I am using hex head but I will change the ones that will make a visual difference in due time. Like I said, I am anxious to go for a test run but want to do some tune up work before I drive the truck very far. This looks like it is going to be a neat trick though. Walter said they are the most comfortable seats he has ever sat in and invites people at shows to sit in them to prove that point.

I will send you a drawing that I found and used as a reference source.