You're learning an important lesson in hammer/dolly work. On-dolly hammering can cause lots of issues because every time you strike you stretch the metal. I'm wagering your problem isn't so much work hardened metal as much as stretched metal if it's causing issues with the surrounding areas. In the ideal world you don't want more than 3/8" (1/4" is better) thick body plastic in a repair. Having said that I've seen, and on occasion used, more when necessary. The absolute best way to get a "read" on a panel is to put on a pair of light weight cotton gloves and run your hand lengthwise over the repair, starting in a straight, unrepaired area then onto the repair. Keep your hand flat. You can substitute a clean rag for the glove if necessary. Never use just your finger tips, the end of your thumb or move your hand sideways, always lengthwise (the direction your fingers are pointing is lengthwise). The first time you do this you'll see why. It's like seeing for the first time. High and low spots will jump out like a slap in the face. Starting the "feel" on a straight, unrepaired area lets your mind "see" what the contour is supposed to be so when you get on the repair the bumps & dips will really stand out. It also helps you "see" the difference between a low spot and what only feels like a low spot because it's next to a high spot.
Last edited by Tiny; 11/02/2011 9:14 PM.
