Thanks Jon and Larry for jogging my memory, I remember hot water testing of floats now that you mention it, but it was probably 50 years ago since I had to test one and I'd forgotten bout it.
I’d never tear into a carb without having the new parts around Jon, fact is I've had two kits here for a couple of months cuz I knew I was going to rebuild the carb at some point I just dint know when. My dad was an old school master mechanic and when I was a kid and taught me the right way to rebuild carburetors. Back then the kits used to come with the tapered lead plugs, we would pull the old ones for clear access to the whole passage while in the cleaner. Without pulling them you face the real possibility of an air pocket and cleaner not getting to it. I’ve made up a small plate with a variety of tapered holes that I warm up and pour plugs into. That’s just the way I was taught.
I was an instrument welder/Sr. research tech at a National Accelerator lab here in suburban Chicago and my hobby was restoring antique radios, so I'm familiar and completely at home with all phases of soldering, it was just the leak testing that I’d forgotten about.
Power Piston fits fine after it came out of the cleaner Larry, just a little tooth brushin’, no need for abrasives! I did ask if the spring was pressed into the Pistons on any of these “B” carbs. Seems to me that they were always loose.
Also I thought I clearly described that the “Pump discharge guide” was a round plug not the standard tee stop chaimv. The only place I’ve see this type stop discussed was in the GM “B” manual. Guess no one has run into one of these so I’ll have to wing it. Sorry again but no abrasives on the die-casting, that’s just asking for more oxidation down the line.
Denny Graham
Sandwich, IL

Denny G
Sandwich, IL