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Click on image for the lowdown. 
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9 members (Gdads51, 52Carl, Stewart2, Gray_Ghost, Canadian Dump, KEVINSKI, Otto Skorzeny, Southerntruck, BC59),
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Global Mod,
Mod | | | Forums66 Topics128,165 Posts1,057,006 Members48,458 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!
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For helping keep this great
old truck web site
on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: May 2010 Posts: 303 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: May 2010 Posts: 303 | Oilrag
Thanks for the great tips on removing the ball of the control arm. But I went ahead and carried the drivers side to a local machine shop and let them have the headache of the second control arm ball removal it was well worth the 30 bucks. He heated the ball end up some with a torch after grinding on the peened side. Then put it in a press and got it out. Took em about a hour best 30 bucks I have spent in a while, they had the right equipment and it saved me a bunch of time and pain. I spent over 30 bucks on drill bits getting the passenger side one out. Not to mention the banged fingers and the time it took me. I have learned a lot restoring this old truck. But 2 of the most important ones I think are these. Next time I need to replace the rear main bearing seal I will take it to the shop and pay the $250.00 and save myself the time and pain. As much as I hate to admit it, I'm getting to old to crawl under a vehicle for 4 hours. And the second important lesson is to carry some things to the machine shop and let them have the headache. | | |
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