If your addressing the color in this link Tim, you are correct, it’s impossible to judge the color from pictures. Differences in cameras, computer screens, photo editing software, then there is the lighting. Was it sunlight, tungsten, florescent or kerosene lantern. There are simply to many variables to expect an accurate color reading. Plus in my case, most of what I post to my album probably has been edited in Photo Shop which I use to correct a poorly exposed picture by lightening or darkening or changing the contrast:
http://www.pbase.com/dennygraham/image/136174267We’ve been thru this engine paint thing hundreds of times since I’ve been a member here. Over the years I’ve come to the conclusion that any of the Stovebolt’s look best in the dark gray that The Filling Station sells. I defy anyone judging the engine color to come up with a factory original un-faded color chip for comparison. Over the years I’ve heard that Bob Adler has changed his formula several times also. As has Bill Hirsch, that seems a clear indication that they were finding variation in their research of original parts also. I did some comparison some time ago laying the colors up next to each other in a single photo. This is probably the best way to compare the shades of gray. I’ve been unable to obtain a sample of Bob Adler’s idea for engine paint. I would like to get an oz. so I could add a strip of his gray to my color chart. As you can see there is even a slight variation from can to can in Bill Hirsch’s interpretation:
http://www.pbase.com/dennygraham/image/116496103http://www.pbase.com/dennygraham/image/116496118 I ran a bare transmission, front and rear axle in my ‘50 for four years. But, I didn’t drive it in the rain, and it was leaking oil so badly from every where that everything underneath was constantly oil soaked. Got lots of comments about my marking the territory every time I parked in any ones driveway. So as I said, I’ve decided to go the chassis black and cast iron paint route now that the entire drive line from the engine on back has been completely restored.
The original question was about the springs. During the tear down last winter I disassembled the springs, wire wheeling them, replaced the bushings, new clips and hanger hardware, then reassembled them dry as the shop manual instructs. After they were back together I painted them with the chassis black. A bunch of pictures of that about half way down this page:
http://www.pbase.com/dennygraham/3604_suspension&page=all I’ve always said that I’m not after “Factory Stock” rather that I’m aiming for a “Period Correct” truck keeping it 95% as it was originally. By that I mean, if I had bought one of these trucks in the 50’s I probably would have made some small custom changes to it to keep it looking nice. Such as panting the parts that weren’t painted and adding a few items from the period, like a side mount for my ’50 which wasn‘t available in ‘50.
Denny Graham
Sandwich, IL
