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| | | Forums66 Topics128,029 Posts1,055,417 Members48,422 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!
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For helping keep this great
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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 843 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 843 | "I opened the box and everything looks good and doesn't have any play . But someone smacked the sector shaft with a hammer and ruined the threads" .
An extremely skilled machinist can restore those threads with a single point threading tool on a lathe. The "trick" is to exactly pick up the existing threads by properly setting the threading tool. I have seen it done and come close myself but I've never succeeded in doing it perfectly. It can also be done by hand with a triangular file.
I found one NOS part for $30 I don't know if thats a good price or not ???
That is typical price. They are generally in the $25 and up range on ebay. It's worth it to not have to pay a machinist to repair the threads. The worm gear is very rare for some reason.
As for the tie rod and drag link there was none so that will be changed anyway . If you have the seal number that would be great.
Here are the Victor and Chicago Rawhide seal numbers Victor 46263 CR 11055
Theres a guy not far from here that can do all the work for me , plus he's an ol hot rodder with a complete shop . Do all the boxes have grease fittings on them like mine ???
Mine did and it was original.
And what pitman arm did you use ??? I don't have one but found one for $15.
I used the original stocker.
I hear that the guys drill out the ball on the pitman arm and then bolt the new drag link on.
Don't "drill" it out or you will end up with a straight hole. The ball stud is tapered and its end is peened over like a rivet. Drill only the peened part then use a punch to remove the stud. Do the same thing on the steering arms. The taper in the holes is the exact same as Moog ES 29R & L tie rod ends. This is a direct tie rod end interchange on the tie rod. I made my own drag link from a solid bar that I put LH threads on one end and RH on the other. It could also have been done by shortening and rethreading a stock tie rod if I had a spare one.
Ray
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