The gas tank is behind the seat, it is a 1953 3100 so I only have to take the seat back off (3 screws into seat frame) and it is all right there, so it only takes 10 minutes, it is no big deal to get access to the sending unit. I installed the new gauge in the dash cluster and the new sending unit in the tank. I hooked up the battery again and nothing when I turned the key on. No movement at all. I used the ohm meter from the tank gas gauge feed wire and the gauge wire on the gas meter at the dash. It is getting a signal so it is not shorted between the tank and gauge under the truck. The old dash gauge I took off came with a paper element that covered the back of the gauge so it wouldn't touch the base of the gauge housing on both sides it had two holes in it so the 2 screw leads didn't touch anything on the cluster housing in the dash. I assume to isolate the signal so it doesn't short out. The new gauge doesn't come with a paper element to isolate it. There is a smear of solder on the back of the gauge between the 2 leads. I assume if I don't use the paper isolation it would short out the gauge. Question? Does the new gauge have different technology that NEEDS it to touch the back of the gauge cluster with that smear of solder? It doesn't seem right then the signal from the sending unit would just ground out if the nuts were tightened and the lead pressed into the cluster housing. This is the second gas sending unit and the second gas gauge. I guess I am doing something fundamentally wrong. Can you help? Can you see what I am saying? When the company I drove tractor trailer for got a brand new truck the first thing they would do was to cut the fuel tank gauge wire. They said if you ever run out of fuel don't bother calling because no one is coming for you, always look into your tank to check your fuel. I guess I could go back to my previous life and look into the tank everytime.
