Paul - all this does not add up. you stated PO had rebuilt. Did you see build sheet/receipts? I have to stop and ask you, from what you are discribing with bad paint, crappy work and no attention to detail, does this sound and look like a rebuilt to you? Not to me. most likely a wrecking yard special with a fast coat of paint and bad cosmetics. To get the absolute most bang for your buck might I make a suggestion. IMHonest opinion before you spend any money on anything for this engine you need to find out what you are dealing with and in fact do you really have a rebuilt, in good mechanical shape, and up to standard performance expectations. Might I suggest you head to a reputable mechanic/shop and have them run a cylinder leakdown test on this engine. Also have them put ignition on the scope/analyzer. Have them run a vacuum test also. Any leaking/sticking valves or bad seats or guides will cause vacuum gauge to bounce and shift between cylinder firings.These quick checks will tell you if your engine has in fact been rebuilt. Any headgasket or valve, guide, or seat problems will be apparent. The leakdown testing will tell you the condition of each cylinder as to ring seal and compression, valve seat and head condition, and or variances between cylinders The ignition tests will verify the mechanical tests, and confirm if you do have valve or ring sealing and or firing/timing issues. This is the best avenue to take with your dollars. before spending any money on a big anchor, find out if you have the real deal or you just throwing money at a piece of crap that you will not be happy with. If this engine has really been redone, the proof is in the pudding, as the saying goes. the numbers will never lie and you will have the opinion of you mechanic as to your next move. I try to look at these kind of things from a dollar viewpoint. unless of course you have money to throw around.
