Glenn;
I also tried to buy the puller but it was on perpetual backorder from everyone. Here's how I did it. Once I cleaned the outer torque tube housing, I looked carefully at the dowel pin. It was peened over with a punch on two or three sides. I took my cordless drill and drilled a small pilot hole in the center of the pin. Then I used successively larger sizes (twice, I think) to get the pin out. You just need to be careful to not drill too deep. Once the pin was out, I used a narrow round punch and working at an angle going from the rear of the truck towards the front..... Rear(\)Front..., I drove the bushing out until I could get the visegrip on it. You need to get it moving out the tube, then back up the punch in the pin opening a little and then drive it out some more. I did not need to heat mine. I then just wiggled it back and forth until it came out. Once out, I shined a light down the torque tube. That's when I found the inner shell of the bushing riding on the shaft. I used needle nose pliers to get that out. I then used a narrow screwdriver and tough paper towels to wipe out the area between the shaft and the tube housing. Once out, I froze the new Okie bushing I bought from Jim Carter for a couple of days to shrink it, lubed it up well with bearing grease and used a piece of round wooden closet hanger bar and a 2# hand sledge to drive it in. Drive it until the end of the bushing is flush with the torque tube. Also, before you drive it, make sure that you use your fingers and check if the splines on the shaft are burred. If they are, you will need to dress them with a file so they don't tear the Okie bushing seal when you drive it back on. My Okie was tight so I did'nt repin it. The pin is to keep the bushing or Okie from spinning in the tube. I may use a bit of JB Weld in the old opening to hold it though before I do any serious driving. Hope this helps. BTW, I also read that some of the tubes don't have the pins especially after '49 or '50.
