yar, that's pretty much what i do with mine, save it for aluminim & stainless. my 175 amp lincoln stick/tig rig is very similar to yours. iirc you won't be able to put a wire feeder on that machine, you'd have to buy another machine. my mig is a 175 amp & 1/4" plate in a single pass is pushing it's limits. for 1/4" & above i like to use stick with 7018 rods ( try them sometime you'll like them alot better than the 6013, much stronger), for 1/4" & down i like to use mig. it's much better for the thinner metals, you can make a much longer, consistent weld without so much heat distortion & better appearance.
but to get back to your original question do i see any advantage in you adding mig capability to your set up? if i could only choose 1 between mig, tig & stick, i'd pick mig hands down. in a shop setting it's just more versatile. but as you stated your comfortable with what you have. do you feel like spending the $$$? some of this isn't about what's right or wrong but about what experience you have & what's available to you. my advice for the hobbyist whose contemplating buying a machine to use at home on resto/rodding projects && whatever is to go with a 230 volt name brand ( miller, licoln, hobart all good) machine & a 75/25 mix argon co2 gas bottle. you could occasionally rent other gases to do stainless or aluminum. lower cost spool guns are available from lincoln & hobart for the small machines now. mig is cheaper & easier to learn.
redwelter i don't think of sharing experience as hornets nest. my desire is to help help folks where i can, not to show off my brilliance (!) or try to one up somebody.
grigg i also agree with you about welding the crossmembers in as opposed to just replacing a rivet or 2. it's certainly alot less trouble & if you don't have access to rivets grade 5 or 8 nuts & bolts & some loctite will do just as well. my apologies for the long winded posts.
Robert
