I assume you're using the original 12 volt point-type distributor, not any sort of upgrade to electronic ignition? The resistor should be in a heavy ceramic holder, surrounding a coil of resistance wire with two screw-type connectors, right? It needs to be connected to the wire that supplies ignition switch voltage to the coil with the ignition in the "run" position, and the other end of the resistor connects to the (+) terminal of the coil. The (-) connector gets routed to the primary terminal on the side of the distributor. I don't like using internal-resistor coils, as there's no way to bypass the resistor and supply straight battery voltage to the coil during cranking. The 12 volt stomp-start switch will have a small terminal which allows a jumper wire to be routed to the coil (+) terminal and bypass the resistor while the starter is engaged. Since battery voltage naturally drops while the starter is under load, this allows the ignition coil to get about the same voltage it had (about 9V.) as when the resistor was in the circuit. The coil operates at its best efficiency with an applied voltage of 9 volts or so, specifically so there will be adequate firing voltage while cranking. If the resistor is not used, the points will flow too much current, and they will burn out in a hurry.
Jerry
