Grin Atthelid, be sure your "gap" is only one inch, not more. If so, your problem is at the pilot bearing, with one exception.

Most common problem is too much weight "hanging" on your clutch disc. Rear of your trans moves downward, input shaft moves upward. Only takes 1/32 of an inch to hang up on your pilot bearing. You mention a correct pilot bearing, so no problem.

Although many use an old transmission input shaft for clutch disk alignment, this often causes this problem. A steel input shaft is just heavy enough to tilt a bit; your arm gets tired. Should you plug in the steel shaft then let go to bolt down your pressure plate, you will be out of alignment because of the weight of the steel input shaft.

Best to use one of those lightweight plastic alignment shafts.

Use a transmission jack with wheels to install your trans rather than bench press it into place. This supports the weight and you can easily make adjustments, like the tilt, by slipping thin pieces of wood or whatever, under the front or rear of your trans. Easy to roll a trans side-to-side with a wheeled trans jack, your right and left alignment.

A true must is to use extra long bolts temporarily, like 4 to 6 inch bolts. Get your trans up there, get it started in, work on alignment. When 2 or 3 inches to go, thread in long bolts, top holes, as if you are bolting your trans in place. Snug, not tight, snug those bolts up in the holes, good thread depth so those bolts will not let loose. This will help keep your transmission in alignment. For your old 216 bellhousing, you probably will only be able to install the two top bolts. Might be able to squeeze in 2 inch bottom bolts, maybe 2 1/2 inch bolts from inside the bellhousing, if you have tiny nimble fingers. However, remember those bottom bolts will push into the bellhousing as you insert your trans; might not be able to withdraw those bottom bolts!

Your wife has tiny nimble fingers. She probably would not mind crawling around on cold concrete under your truck. Kids love to do this, maybe a kid.

A last ditch effort is to hook up your clutch pedal linkage then depress your clutch pedal to the floor and jam with a stick between your pedal and seat frame. This will not free your clutch disc but will allow you to move the disc around if you jam in your spare steel input shaft. Might get lucky.

Final effort, loosen off your pressure plate then realign your disk using a plastic input shaft device, available at parts stores. Be sure to axle grease the pilot bearing end to get some grease up in there, not too much grease, just a little. Not needed if you have already greased the pilot bearing.

My exception mentioned is if you mistakenly installed a "long" throwout bearing instead of short. Not sure on your truck if you need the long or short, I think short. Difference between a long and short bearing is about an inch.

Again, use a wheeled transmission jack, go buy a jack if you do not have one, a must have. Thread in long guide bolts up top. Depress your clutch pedal to release some grip on the disc. Loosen your pressure plate, realign.

Concept here is support the weight of your trans with a wheeled jack and guide bolts so you can use your muscles for delicate alignment. Much easier job this way, and you are less likely to end up with a tailshaft stabbed clean through your head.

Bet you a buck a trans jack and those guide bolts will do the trick for you, and maybe a kid to supervise you under your truck.

Billyray


1948 GMC 3 Ton Flatbed
1952 Chevy 1/2 Ton Panel
1956 Chevy 3/4 Ton NAPCO