Thanks Hotrod Lincoln, for your advice, I really didn't want to swap wires from what the factory said on the wiring diagram, but you convinced me and I did. OK so now the Battery gauge now reads positive and it does show more voltage when it is running about 7 volts but the battery was run down and I think it is most likely recharging. I didn't check it before I swapped the wires on the gauge, so I am not sure if anything had changed there. But, when I put the positive cable on the battery it still sparks and the battery gauge is pegged on discharge with the key off. So the volt meter (amp meter, battery gauge) I think pretty much they are all interchangeable and we both know what I am talking about is hot all the time and is drawing somewhere when the key is off. There were only a few things different from my truck on the addendum. If it was a foot started truck and not a key started truck, the start side of the key wire had to go to the positive side of the volt meter. Mine is a foot start. That wire runs to the positive side of the battery gauge and the starter, I am wondering if they are wrong and it has to run through the key switch so it is not hot all the time. Since my key switch is only 2 position, on and off, No start. The other thing I was wondering if the voltage regulator is calling for charge and the points are closed could there be a power draw there between the generator, starter and regulator and feeding back to the volt meter? In other words if it was calling for the battery to be charged would it be reasonable to expect some spark since the circut is completed with the points closed? I was very happy with this wire harness, the color, size and the correct wire ends were all correct and nothing really hit any snags and it was impressive and easy, but now I am wondering if their directions and schematic is wrong? I guess the way to start is to disconnect everything but the positive cable to the starter and connect the positive side of the battery and see if I get the draw and sparks when I hook it up, then one by one disconnect one wire at a time until I find the bad component. I am out of answers and this Coors light is not coming up with anything either so that was no use. I don't know, maybe take it all back apart and start over? It sounds like a big task especially since the truck has been built as I was going... motor, gauges, fuel gauge then the seat, ETC... Yikes.
Last edited by 53John3100; 03/21/2010 8:43 AM.