You absolutely need to get a shop manual. They show up on ebay all the time. They're being reprinted, and the prices for good originals are nearly what they are for the reprints.
I took my time and lucked out, getting an original in perfect shape, for $6 plus shipping. The manual is for '60 model, carried over for '61, and then the '62 is a thin supplement to the '60, so I had to find both.
The return spring on the clutch arm should run up to a small bracket on the frame, but the slave cylinder itself should bolt to the bellhousing. If it really is bolted to the frame, you need to change that.
Also, I discovered something very interesting when I pulled my engine--the clutch fork rides on a pivot ball inside the bellhousing. That pivot IS removable. The pivot ball is about the diameter of a nickel, and is obviously a ball. However, on my truck, after 45 years, it had worn down to a sharp little point! No ball, just a round little pyramid. I have no idea how it even worked anymore. Check that out too. It takes a whole lot more effort to get access to it though. But it can be done without removing the engine--you'll just need to gain access from below.
-Brad
Last edited by Brad54; 07/01/2009 7:47 PM.
