48bigtrucks has made a good point. Before tossing a bunch of parts on the engine, I'd do a through evaluation, starting with some light oil lube in the cylinders....slow rocking with the flywheel just in case you've got some stuck rings.....light oil on the valve train and spinning the push rods and getting an idea that it wasn't stuck. Once you verify it is free and can be turned over without breaking rings or bending push rods...pop the distributor and spin the pump with a drill motor with fresh oil and a gauge to verify full oil circulation.....and then a compression test to see what you've got to work with.
Once that's verified I'd go for firing it up and running a fast idle and watching for the inevitable leaks from the timing and rear main seals, monitor temps and get an idea about the overall condition of the package.
Once you know it isn't going to bleed like a stuck pig from the rear main, you'd know if bolting on the fuel pump and water pump was worth while.
This may seem like a lot of effort but you will have a better picture of what you've got to work with. I've found that it's better to do some investigative work, especially on an engine that has been dry for so many years. It would be a waste of time and money to hang on a bunch of new parts only to discover that the engine needs to come down for some major R&R.
Dave
