Back in the 50's and 60's we had a boring bar that we could bore engines without removing the block. We had no use for it once we started running Cummins. If the water didn't fill the crank case and the crank and cam is still good that may be an option. A set of Egge pistons and rings would probably cost $300. I bought some just a couple of weeks ago that cost $50 a hole. Patrick probably charges around the same. I was at his place back in January. His son is pretty big in the business with him. Don't wait for them to return a call. Keep trying. He may have a block that doesn't need boring. There aren't many 248's around because they were only used in the 2 tons and 54 and 55 pickups. 55 second series used a mount that bolted to the side of the block while the older ones used a mount that bolted to the front of the block. The late one will work in either series, but the older one requires a little rigging to fit in the new one. But they are usually cheap when you find them because most people what more power. I recently bought a rebuilt 248 short block on eBay for $700. It was rebuilt by a reputable rebuilder and the guy was glad to get rid of it. I also ought a good 270 for $600 complete on eBay simply because the guy wanted a S/B in his truck. If you're willing to travel, rust buckets from the rust belt sometimes run good, but the bodies are dying from cancer and they sell cheap. Chances are good your needs to be bored, but maybe not. I would pull the head and remove the pistons. I have had some that looked pretty rusty that I honed and ran them 50,000 miles. If you can get down to shiny metal by honing to shiny metal and stick a ring in the hole and the gap is ok, it will run. A complete rebuild will be $3000, but if you take your time you can probably get running for under $1000. Then if you decide that you think the truck is worth a $3000 engine, you can still do it.