Just another option to check out....I really hate to beat the drum too much on this E10 fuel we're being forced to use in our older vehicles, but we've had some identical issues since our first tank of the blended stuff.
If your ignition system is in good shape and the engine fires immediately when cold, I'd take a closer look at your fuel line routing. We've noted, in a variety of different vehicles, that when you shut the engine down (with the hood closed) and tried to refire the engine after say 20 minutes....it would crank fine but stall out as soon as the float bowls emptied. As we dug a little deeper into the issue we found that the engine was "heat soaking" and the temperature of the fuel lines, between the mechanical (or electric) fuel pump would climb to nearly 150 degrees. Being that E10 seperates at 128 degrees, we noted that our fuel pressure gauges would read "zero" psi when we tried to restart the engine. If the hood was raised upon shutting down and engine compartment heat allowed to escape, the chance "phenomomem" occuring was reduced....dependent on how long the engine was allowed to cool. I just run my a/c supplimental pusher fan for about 5 minutes.
In addition, if a wet rag is applied to the fuel line between the thermostat housing and the carbs before the engine died, fuel pressure would immediately be restored. Several have rerouted their steel line from the pump straight up and over the top of the valve cover and added a small aluminum heat shield deflector under the line, on top of the exhaust manifold, to aid in shielding the line from the radiant heat generated when your engine is shut down.
Once the temperature in the line exceeds the 128 degrees in a system that has no return line to the tank, the classic vapor lock might be your problem. Draining the tank and adding 5 gallons of straight gasoline or Av gas corrects the issue immediately.
The modern injected vehicle with an electric pump that returns hot fuel to the tank and flushes the lines with cool fuel don't seem to have these issues. The next time you have this problem, just run a wet rag over the fuel lines where they pass between the thermostat housing and the valve cover and see if this doesn't bring the line temperature down to where your engine will fire and continue to run. It won't cost you a penny and might just let you get your rig back under power.
Dave
