| |
Click on image for the lowdown. 
====
| | |
8 members (57 Drifter, Bill Hanlon, 3B, Gdads51, Otto Skorzeny, Gray_Ghost, DennisM, rick46ia),
45
guests, and
3
robots. | | Key: Admin,
Global Mod,
Mod | | | Forums66 Topics128,022 Posts1,055,362 Members48,420 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!
| | THANKS!
For helping keep this great
old truck web site
on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Jul 2004 Posts: 5,708 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jul 2004 Posts: 5,708 | av8tor,
The wire going to the + side of the coil is called the primary lead wire. It needs to be switched ON when the engine is running and OFF when the engine is shut down. This task is normally performed with the ignition switch. A wire runs from a position on the ignition switch that is powered when the switch is ON.
If your rig has been converted to 12 volts, there needs to be some type of resistance in the powered wire to coil +. This takes the form of a ceramic resistor called a ballast resistor, or on more modern rigs, a special wire with built in resistance.
If you run 12 volts and don't want to deal with some type of resistance deal you can install a ignition coil that has the resistance built in. If you power your coil from the battery without a switch for long periods of time, you can cook the points and ruin the coil...as you noticed with the heat.
Does this make sense to you?
Stuart | | |
| |
| |