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8 members (Gdads51, FAST55, cmayna, Otto Skorzeny, jmoore, papas52, Gray_Ghost, greenie-reddy),
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Global Mod,
Mod | | | Forums66 Topics128,162 Posts1,056,950 Members48,458 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!
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For helping keep this great
old truck web site
on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Nov 2002 Posts: 48 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Nov 2002 Posts: 48 | Well I just bolted up the doors to the cab on my 53 3100 and guess what? Those beautiful 5" weld beads that I put in the corners of the door sil, over the ugly 1953 stick welds ended up bitting me in the rear!
I drilled a few tiny 1/8th" "alignment holes" in the hinges before I removed the doors. And now the doors are hitting the striker plate, AND they are too tight to the cowl! thank god I didn't spray final paint yet!
I am going out to the garage to make a "port a power" type jig with 2x4's and a scisor jack and see if I can push the hinge pillar and the lock pillar apart enough to compensate for what my purdy welds did.
It looks like I am going to be cutting the cab with a skinny wheel and hammering and rewelding to get the correct even gap all the way around the doors, do I need to take the cab off the 2x4 dolly I made and bolt it on to the frame before I do all this cutting and welding surgury?
If you need a tool and don't buy it, you will find you have paid for it and don't have it.
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