With a little research, it's still possible to buy new original-equipment brake parts, not Chinese repops. If that's not an option, sleeving certainly is. I'm in the process of doing a total brake rebuild on a 1951 Chevy 2-door hardtop, with Huck brakes. When it hits the road, it will be as good as, or better than new.
Using heat to loosen rusted-in bleeder screws is not a problem, as long as the wheel cylinder is held in a vise, or something similar to absorb the heat that's transferred away from the bleeder screw. Get the bleeder red hot quickly with a big acetyline torch flame, tap it with a hammer once or twice, and use vise grips to turn it loose. No warp, no damage, and all it takes to get back in business is a new bleeder screw and a wheel cylinder kit, assuming the bore isn't pitted badly.
Jerry
