Just to add a bit of information based on some observations of my own setup. I, along with several of my car-friends were noting some issues which mimicked "vapor lock" after shutting down an engine which was up to operating temperature. Upon cranking the engine, the fuel pressure would remain at 0 psi at the carbs until the engine drained the carb fuel bowls and the engine would shut down. Using an infrared thermometer it indicated that after shutting down the hot engine, the temperature increase in the line, where it curves around the front of the aluminum valve cover . I understand that this "heat soak" is a normal phenomen in any internal combustion water cooled engine. However, with the "phase separation" point of ethanol at about 128 degrees I noted that the steel line, directly above the front corner of the Fenton headers would reach 150 degrees. I fabricated an aluminum heat shield (deflector) which went between the exhaust manifold and the glass bowl fuel filter which was inline just before the carbs. This kept the heat down to 119-120 degrees at the filter. However, the 2" section of line in front of it would still reach 150 and fuel pressure remain at "0."
At this point I ran up the engine temp to normal operating, shut the engine down (with the hood closed) gave it 15 minutes, cranked the engine with "0" fuel pressure showing and just as the engine started to run out of gas and stumble....applied a wet rag to the little 2" curved section of steel line directly above the area where the header mates to the head. Immediately, fuel pressure returned to the normal 4 psi (regulated) and the engine operated normally.
Obviously, the line needed some INSULATION, which totally corrected the situation. So what did I learn from this little issue? First of all, the line is routed just like any stock setup...so moving it really wouldn't solve the problem. The key is to INSULATE it and if by chance you are having some issues after parking your truck for 20 minutes and having it stall, you would be well advised to add a section of ss shielded, ethanol rated line to correct this issue or at least add an insulating wrap. Another option is to open your hood and let the heat out. Modern vehicles with a recirculating fuel system use fresh fuel moving through the lines to eliminate the potential problem. BTW....after the first issue with loss of fuel pressure, I converted to an electric pump mounted on the frame about 8" from and below the fuel tank. The same issue was noted with the electric pump which made no difference in correcting the issue and I have subsequently switched back to the mechanical pump.
Dave
