Sounds familiar Ken, accept torquing the head was the one exception in our household, we always were particular about that just to avoid stretching the bolts beyond yield. The rest of the torque specs went back in the drawer and we relied on the torque wrench that hung off our shoulder. Bout the only other spot that I would deem really important would be on some rear gears that had the crush sleeves.
When I installed the spacer/adaptors for the front wheels on my ’50, 3604 I did look into torquing the lug nuts which again, is something that I’d never been concerned about before. And judging from what I’ve seen at most tire shops, they never were either. The only tire shop that I ever saw haul out a torque wrench was just this summer when I had the coopers put on my ’97 at Farm & Fleet, surprise, surprise!

I still haven’t gotten out to the barn to check the torque on the head, or had a chance to make an adaptor for the pressure check. I was going to let it sit for a while to see if I get any thing draining into the pan or cylinders. The coolant level hasn’t moved one bit in the week plus that its been sitting so if it is a crack then it is only opening up when its hot, or from the negative pressure on the intake cycle.
My other possibility is that the rings are letting so much blow by that it’s bringing water vapor into the crank case. The only problem I can see with that theory is that there doesn’t appear to be any coolant building in the crankcase, at least on the dipstick. I suppose I should pull the pan and see if there is any froth in there.
Denny Graham
Sandwich, IL

Denny G
Sandwich, IL