joek3167,
The voltage regulator is sometimes mounted on little shock insulated feet with rubber grommets. I think the idea was to make sure there was a good solid circuit from the voltage regulator frame to the alternator housing.
I'm not clear on your readings. If you use attach a terminal and short wire to DA 'F', start the truck and watching a voltmeter connected to BATT on the alternator, you should see it swing to 14.0 plus volts when you touch thee short wire to the BATT terminal and bring engine speed up.
Energizing the alternator field allows it to create power. A meter attached to voltage regulator terminal #4 should show 12 volts when the key is turned ON. Terminal #3 should show 12 volts too (or battery voltage) when probed with a voltmeter.
There are three components that make this work..the alternator, the regulator and the wiring connecting them. If you can prove the alternator functional and the integrity of the wires then the voltage regulator is the culprit. New electrical items can be bad off the shelf, but the odds are usually against it.
Without voltage to terminal "F" the alternator won't charge. I don't know if a blown GEN light will inhibit power from reaching terminal "F" but I do remember a previous post on that subject.
I'm assuming you know you have a 10DN alternator and not a 10SI. Unless the DA wires were messed with by someone previous to you, the plug is different and won't interchange.
Stuart
