According to the instructions I have, it is actually suggested that you remove the old seal-bushing with a "puller", but that it is acceptable to insert the new seal-bushing in front of, or on top of, the old seal-bushing. If you want to use a "puller", it would have to be a slide hammer. You can buy a slide hammer for less than $50.00 at places like Harbor Freight Tools, or you can rent them from your FLAPS. Removal of the old seal to see how it is inserted, which end the seal is at, would insure a correct installment. A picture shows the old seal-bushing to be pushed down the tube by a new one. It states that on a 1937-1950 model vehicle, the seal-bushing is pinned and the pin needs to be removed to allow the old seal-bushing to move down the propeller shaft. The seal end of the unit would have to go into the tube first so the U-joint can ride on the machined end of the new seal-bushing, in other words the seal would have to be at the back of the installation. The seal-bushing is to be driven in with a block of wood or soft mallet so as not to damage the end of the unit which the u-joint would insert into. The seal-bushing is not supposed to turn during operation. The propeller shaft is supposed to turn inside of the seal-bushing and if the seal is not tight enough for it not to turn, a pin should be installed. The seal-bushing I have has a seal end and a bushing end. The seal end is the end that goes in first and the machined end which is the end the u-joint rides in or on.
When I say it is obvious which end goes in first, on the seal end of the unit, the seal is laying back into the unit, indicating by the direction of the way the seal is leaning back shows me it must go in first in addition to the fact that on the diagram, it shows the u-joint riding on the non sealed end of the unit.
I hope all this helps.
Joe
