You don't need to drop the transmission. I've changed dozens of seals by simply removing the pan and the rear main cap, and loosening the rest of the main bearing caps. There's enough wobble in the transmission input shaft to allow the crank to drop a little, and there are tools available to ease the upper rope seal out, and install the new one.
Jerry,
Thanks again for the input. This "seal" is exactly like valve stem and braided pump packing. It's probably the most common shaft packing in use in the world.
Chesterton (take a look at the link and see what I mean) and Crane were the most common manufacturer's when I went to sea and we stocked both graphite impregnated, as well as teflon impregnated, and wire wound, depending on application. We also had a supply of
Packing Hooks (as we called them) which are basically like cork screws affixed to a flexible cable with a "T" handle on the other end. You just crank that sucker in and pull the packing out. This application of course was using multiple rows of "rings" and staggering the butted ends. The packing is tightened down by a packing gland. Most of our pumps were converted to mechanical seal but most valve stems, except the very large and high pressure valves, still use braided packing like that used on the rear main seal.
Gosh, I do feel stupid at times, almost like I forgot everything I've learned over the years. I just haven't worked on this particular piece of machinery, the 235, and don't mind asking questions of those that have. If there is an easier way to do something and someone knows how I sure don't mind asking.
That being said--I have another question. I've removed the entire front clip (hood, fenders, radiator, grill, etc) due some other punch out items I need to take care of. Since the truck is in this torn down state do you guys think it would be easier to renew the rear main seal packing in place or go ahead and yank the engine and do it? I'm also still a bit nervous about the clutch play situation described in my
Source for a "Long" TO bearing topic. I'm still awaiting an answer from Pre '68Dave about the clutch play, but other than the other two solutions offered (one being shimming the fork ball and the other perhaps another type of fork) I'm reluctant to pull the engine if there is no expectation of solving the problem.
As always comments are certainly welcome and desired.
Thanks,
Don
