well I am uploading some video of the "event" I do not have a lot of pics, I forgot to download the memory card so I did not get to much.
Right now I need to replace-
Heater thermostat valve
Rochester carb
Temp switch.
So yesterday,
Saturday
I go to the barn and begin work on the truck.
I start with connecting up the fuel line flexible to hard line- I also put a ground wire from the sending unit to the cab
I then put in the new battery and make all the proper electrical connections-
I turn the switch and wa-la-
We have lit dash lights-
and the gauges jump a little when first turning on the key-
I then add gasoline to the tank-
Turn the key
The gas gauge registers an unspecified amount
Things are looking good
I then make one last check that everything is clear- and
Hit the starter-
Nothing-
So after checking the bat cables, I make a few adjustments
Jump in the cab and hit the starter-
RRR, RRRR ,RRRR ,RRRR but not start
I repeat the starting
RRR, RRRR, RRRR, RRRR
Ithink it is the missing fourth R from the sound effects, but no start.
So I jump out and look under the hood
Fuel, air, spark are required to start an engine-
Check the pump and the carb
We have fuel, and pretty sure air
I check the spark
Yes we have spark.
So-
I look at the timing-
way off
I am used to timing john deere tractors-
like the 1930's hand start vintage- so they have clear marks of when to do everything-
These modern 6 volt electric start things kind of throw me-
I followed everything in the manual
like the part where the hole on the distributor farthest from the engine is number 1. . . ..
well
so I figure that it is right(no timing light)
So I pull the carb-
I find some stuff on the carb that needs work so I work on that awhile-
I then get back to work
RRR, RRRR, RRRR, RRRR
nothing
RRR, RRRR, RRRR, RRRR
nothing
By that time the day is about over(Had stuff to do last night)
So I head home
Last night I searched this site and found out about that making the number one hole be wherever the rotor stops when the BB is lined up with the needle-
I also picked up a newer heavier braided ground wire from tractor supply.
Get the wire installed, and reset the timing
RRR, RRRR, RRRR, VROOOOOOOOOOOOM
then it dies
I almost did too. . . . . .
So then I try it again,
RRR, RR-VROOOM, VROOOM, VROOM
then it dies
I quickly figure out that the truck won't idle-
I hop out to try adjusting the carb and there is oil everywhere underneath the engine.
Usually helps to tighten the nut on the oil filter housing when running and engine.
So I top off the oil, tighten the lid, and clean up the truck a little- Puked out about 1/2 quart.
It will run fine if I hold the pedal.
So I got some lunch and ran over to get heater hoses and
came back and put in the radiator, the hoses and coolant.
I crank the engine and get it run and find out two things-
The heater control valve leaks-
and the temp switch is only registering at about a 1/8 of an inch past 220, and then disappears-
So I check all the lines- everything is fine- I can touch the engine- It is hot, but not to bad-
So I am calling Classic parts to find out why the brand new switch is acting up(unless someone here knows)
So I disconnect the heater valve and use a 5/8 hose mender union to put the two lines together
(I will get a new valve this week- paging Jeff at Bowtie bits, to the white courtesy phone)
I then run the engine at just off idle (using the gas pedal as the idle control)
I do this for a little while with some fans assisting the cooling system
The engine smokes a little at first, then the smoke goes away(I figure the oil I put in the cylinders during rebuild burning off)
So Big sense of achievement, IT IS ALIVE!
I think a new carb is in order, there will be a post with question in driveline
More later(including pic and video.)
