The Stovebolt Site Forums The Parking Lot Panels 'N Burbs Check list for buying a 1947/55 Suburban/Panel/CE

Here's another modified version. December 30, 2009

I have helped a few guys in their pursuit in finding a Suburban. This list should help most people who are not as familiar with the vehicles as some of us. It can also be used remotely when a fellow stovebolter volunteers to look at a suburban for another who lives far away. I am looking for some input on building a check list that can eventually be posted in the Tech Tips. The bolters in this forum are probably the most knowledgeable.

I have compiled this as a living document, I am open to and encourage input and corrections. Please let me know what can be added or should be corrected. I am sure I have forgotten something.

This should cover 1/2 ton Suburbans, Panels and Canopy Express vehicles. One ton models will have the same problems with only some of the body patches being unavailable.

BUYING A 1947/55 SUBURBAN/PANEL/CANOPY EXPRESS

Both the GMC and the Chevrolet share many of the same body parts and all of the same problems. The Advance Design Body's were problematic to rust in the same places as the pick up plus areas exclusive to the Panels and Suburban. My real focus is on the Suburban, but I have included some of the issues with the Panel and Canopy Express.

Here are a few of the areas to check when purchasing a Suburban, Canopy Express or Panel: The Panel and Canopy Express have their own quirks and issues, but the following information can be used as a baseline in your search.

Front fenders: This is common to all AD trucks, including the Suburban. Cowl to fender first and second bolt adjacent to the hood. Also the lower cowl to fender area as the fender curves. The lower portion of the fenders can be a problem too. Sometimes in extreme case I have seen rust out around the headlights. No repair panels available to my knowledge. (ALL)

Cowl: This is common to all AD trucks. As mentioned in the fender to cowl area, but also on the lower section of the cowl between the fender and the door. Repair panels are available. (ALL)

Door pillar: This is common to all AD trucks. The lower section just below and including the lower hinge gets rust out. Repair panels are available. Check the door for sagging and misalignment. (ALL)

Door bottoms: This is a common to all AD trucks. Patch panels are available (ALL)

Inner cowl: This is common to all AD trucks. Rust out is common in this area and around the toe board including the emergency brake location. Repair panels are available. (ALL)

Cowl to front fender well: This is another area that is prone to rust out and common to all AD trucks. Repair panels are available. (ALL)

Toeboard: Usual place to find rust out. Repair panels are available. Look under the firewall padding. (ALL)

Floorboard: usual place to find rust out.Repair panels are available. Look under the floor matting. (ALL)

Windshield/cowl: Look for rust or deep pits caused by leaking seal. (ALL)

Cowl vent: Look for unusual rust caused by bad seal. Also look under the dash if you find any evidence of a leaking vent seal. Water collects near the ignition switch and around the steering column and will rust out the lower portion of the dash. (ALL)

Inside visor: This is common to all AD trucks. Check this area for rust caused by leaking window seal. (ALL)

Roof rain gutters : This area is susceptible to seam cracking and leaks, rust out can occur in several areas. (ALL)

Interior roof and headliner bows: This area can get major surface rust and the headliner bows can be come loose or rust. (SUBURBAN)

Seat riser and passenger seat floor: This is usually rusted and the passenger floor is a flat piece of 1/8" steel that hides most of the rust. Make sure you check this area carefully and do an underneath inspection too. (SUBURBAN) Panel and Canopy Express seat riser goes the full width of the cab an is susceptible to rust too.

Running boards: these rust out at the support area. Reproductions are available. (1/2 TON)

Curved area under the rear side windows between the front door and the rear fender (both sides): This area is usually rusted, sometimes the paint hides the rust out. Check this area carefully. Patch panels are available. (SAME PROBLEM FOR SUBURBAN/PANEL AND CE)

Under rear fender flange: This area is another hidden problem. Make sure that you use a flash light and poke around a little. This will show up when you remove the fenders. Limited patch panels are now available (RAY STANLEY) (SAME PROBLEM FOR SUBURBAN/PANEL AND CE)

Rear fenders: Where it attaches to the running board and the rear corner. Also the fender flange to the body rusts out (SAME PROBLEM FOR SUBURBAN/PANEL AND CE)

Body belt line just above the rear fenders: sometimes this can be a problem and it can be hidden under the paint or someone has bondoed over it. Limited patch panels are available (RAY STANLEY). (SAME PROBLEM FOR SUBURBAN/PANEL AND CE)

Rear cab corners: This is a common place for rust out. Limited patch panels are available (RAY STANLEY).(SAME PROBLEM FOR SUBURBAN/PANEL AND CE)

Rear valence: Often missing or damaged. Only available as a fiberglass reproduction. (SAME PROBLEM FOR SUBURBAN/PANEL AND CE)

Body panel just above rear valence: This is sometimes rusted and most always dented. Some patch panels are available but not a complete piece (RAY STANLEY). (SAME PROBLEM FOR SUBURBAN/PANEL AND CE)

Rear body sill: This is the piece just inside the rear doors. Usually dented sometimes rusted out. No patch panels available to my knowledge. (SAME PROBLEM FOR SUBURBAN/PANEL AND CE)

Rear doors (barn): Usually dented, sometimes rusted at the bottoms and hinges. Missing hardware or hardware not working is common problem. No patch panels available. (SAME PROBLEM FOR SUBURBAN/PANEL)

Clam shell tailgate: Usually dented and usually rusted at the hinges and the inside bottom. (SAME PROBLEM FOR SUBURBAN AND CE)

Clam shell lift gate: Usually rusted at the bottom and window area. Hinges are usually sprung or damaged. Sometimes they have been poorly welded in. Look for welds and tears. Check gate supports for proper operation. (SUBURBAN ONLY)

Lower hinge support (Clamshell tailgate): This area usually cracks or is rusted out. climb underneath and check. (SAME PROBLEM FOR SUBURBAN AND CE)

Hinge support header: sometimes rusted out due to poor fitting lift gate (sprung) can also be damaged due to frozen upper lift gate hinges. (SUBURBAN)

Inside side panels under rear side windows: sometimes rust out will occur when the fender wells get rusted out. This will show up in the area adjacent to the fender flange just above the inside fender tunnel. Make sure you check this area carefully (both sides) (SAME PROBLEM FOR SUBURBAN/PANEL AND CE)

Side window openings: This area gets filled with leaves and crud. Check the outside trim pieces as well as the inside trim pieces. Slide the windows and use your flash light for a thorough inspection. (SUBURBANS)

Leaded seams: There are a couple of leaded factory seams that may show stress cracks or just have failed. They are located at the top of the front windshield pillars, cowl to side cowl panels and at the rear roof corners near the rear side windows. (SAME PROBLEM FOR SUBURBAN/PANEL AND CE)


Make sure it has all of the hard to find parts or you know what is missing:

Side window stainless. (Unique to the Suburban) 1947/53 and 1954/55 Two different styles
Side window stops: (Unique to the Suburban) 1947/53 and 1954/55 Two styles of clips. 1947/53 * Reproduction stops available through Jim Carter's
Rear fenders: (Unique to Panels/Canopy Express and Suburban) * Reproductions in fiberglass only!
Rear valence (Unique to the Suburban/Panel/Canopy Express) * Available in fiberglass reproduction only.
Rear door handle and door hardware. (Barn door) (Unique to the Suburban/Panel)
Barn door checks. There are two different styles, one for the Suburban and another for the Panel.
Rear lift gate support (clamshell lift gate) (Unique to the Suburban)
Tailgate cables and retractors. (Clamshell tailgate) (Unique to the Suburban) * Generic reproduction retractors available * Cables can be made to order.
Spare tire carrier and spare tire. Two styles, 1947/50 and 1951/55 (Unique to the Suburban/Panel/Canopy Express)
Front/Jump, Middle and Rear seats. (Unique to the Suburban)
Front bucket seats. Drivers seat is original equipment and the passenger seat is an option (unique to the Panel/Canopy Express)
Cab divider panel (Unique to the Canopy Express)
Bed rails (Unique to the Canopy Express)
Roof bows. (Unique to the Suburban)
Side window garnish trim (inside and out) (Unique to the Suburban)
Clamshell Tail light (it should have a round base and hinged) This light will flip down when the tailgate is in the open position. Look for the rod attached to the lower sill when the gate is in the open position. (Unique to the Suburban/Canopy Express)
Clamshell tailgate. (Unique to the Suburban and a modified version for the canopy express.)
Clamshell lift gate. (Unique to the Suburban)
Tool box covers Panel/Canopy Express have two and the Suburban has one.

Safety checks and tools:

Always take a flashlight, rug/mat, gloves, small hand tools, hand cleaner, rags, masks etc. with you for inspecting the vehicle.
Always check the brakes, including the parking brake.
Always look under the dash for wiring and it's connections.
Always check the electrical components ie: gauges,head lights, tail lights, instrument lights, heater switch etc.
Always check heater an defroster for proper operation and leaks.
Always check steering slop and king pin wear.
Always look at the oil and water.
Always look for evidence of oil leaks where the vehicle is stored, not just where he is showing it.

Caution:

*Always check the registration to the license plate, body tag, engine number. Make sure that the paper work belongs with this vehicle. Take a picture of the seller with the vehicle, make sure you get the license plate in the picture. He does not have to know why you are taking the pictures. Get a copy of his drivers license or another vehicles license if possible.

Other things to check:

Check the doors for sagging and fit. Lift door when in the open position to check hinge wear. Look for wear on the door striker. Make sure that the door lines are close (they were never perfect from the factory)

Check for missing parts, take a manual with you if you are not sure.

Check radiator for rusty water.

Check heater for leaks and proper operation.

Check engine oil, it should be golden. Further inspection of the engine will be needed if oil is black or worse, gray.

Check the tires for wear and alignment. If truck has been sitting, check for age cracks and de-lamination of the tread.

Check the king pins. Rock the tires back and forth. (The best way is when the tires are off the ground)

Check under the vehicle for unusual rust and modifications.

Check for engine smoke and noises.

Check the front and rear seals for leaks after the engine warms up.

Check all of the rubber parts including window seals,motor mounts, hoses and belts.

Check all of the glass, roll the windows up and down, listen for rattles.

Check for bondo or body repairs (a small magnet will work)



What to expect when driving vehicle:


Steering should be tight and no weaving on the road.

Shifting should be easy and no grinding of the gears.

The clutch should start engaging about two inches from the floor board.

The clutch should start disengaging about two inches as the pedal is depressed.

You should not hear noises as the clutch disengages. Listen for throw-out bearing noises.

Brakes should stop in a straight line and not pull left or right.

You should not smell exhaust inside the cab with the windows rolled up.

The horn, lights and gauges should all be working. The amp gauge should show a slight charging (positive)

Check the windshield wipers going up a grade.

The engine should not move hard when accelerating (bad motor mounts.) Broken rear mounts will cause a hopping effect when shifting or accelerating.