We have used dayton (cast spoke) wheels in the past and have found them to be easier to change out on the road if you don't have an air wrench and are forced to use hand tools. Many of the old trucks we acquired over the years came with dayton wheels so when we ordered new trucks we specified daytons. This simplified our tire and wheel inventory. I still have 2 older Mack tractors with daytons but now run hub piloted wheels on everything else. Disadvantages are; Not able to switch tire sizes from 20 to 22 inch without changing the cast spoke hubs and having to pull the hubs off every time a brake job was needed. However when doing the brake job with dayton wheels you had the chance to examine the bearings and races each time for problems. With outboard mounted drums you could neglect the bearings by not examining them from time to time. Mounting dayton wheels to the hub is not difficult. Make sure the wheels are chocked and the brakes set. Wedges should be the same and placed evenly on each wheel stud. Place the nuts on all around. I normally started 'snugging up' evenly the 12 o'clock position first and then go to the 6 o'clock. Not too tight! Then I go to the 2 o'clock, then 8, then 4 and finally 10 o'clock. I continue this pattern at least 3 times with more pressure around until the nuts are tight and the wedges are almost flat against the hub. The wedges need to be very close to the hub (like about 1/8 inch), if not then too much pressure is placed on the wheel stud and it may break. Check wheel alignment by releasing the brake and spinning the tire by hand against an object placed near the tire's edge. I don't know what torque is required and I don't know if this procedure is by the book. I do know that we have used this same sequence over many years and have never lost a wheel. Hope this helps! JAMES
