If you are removing the cylinder head to deal with the stuck valve, yes, remove the complete rocker arm assembly- shafts and all, but leave the adjustments alone for now. You should have two cap screws and two threaded studs with nuts that hold the rocker assembly to the head. You can leave the studs in the head if you want to. Also, leave the bolts in the two supports at the center of the assembly, to keep things together while you handle it. When you remove the bolts/studs from the head, the shaft assembly will separate in the center when you lift if off the engine, so handle it somewhat carefully, not that it matters much if it comes apart, but that is avoidable complication if it happens. There are two thrust washers, or there should be, one at the center end of each 'half' shaft; those will fall off along with the oiler connection in the center- none of that is a serious matter if it happens.
Depending on the location of the broken arm, lay out the arms, the springs, and supports in their proper order so you put them all back in the correct location. Again, it is not unmanagable if you mess up the locations, but that is also an avoidable complication. I'm not sure what you are refering to with the "rocker set bolts on the driver's side"; are you refering to the adjustment screws and jam nuts on the passenger side? Leave those alone for now- that comes later.
For your other questions, yes, this rocker setup is vastly different from the 250 CID engines and the derivatives- for the most part, those have hydraulic lifters; yours has solid lifters- or it did originally. Yes, the set screw and jam nut on each rocker arm is the only valve adjustment. Yes, to install the assembly, put it back into position and tighten the bolts/nuts, but NO, you have to readjust the tappets/lifters after this operation. Yes, probably everything will be all right if you don't adjust the valves, but you risk future trouble if you don't adjust the valves after the job- that doesn't mean you can't start the engine before adjusting the valves, that just means you need to adjust the valves before you are finished. Valve clearance is .008" intake and .015" exhaust, engine hot. Original specifications are .006 I and .013 E, hot, but the larger clearance was more commonly used.
Don't forget to connect the rocker arm oil line after everything is in place. It can be troublesome with your engine, so be careful not to cross-thread the fitting. The fitting is a standard tube fitting, and the oil line is a standard size, but avoid trouble if you can. Its preferable to use a tubing wrench on the fitting.
The only can of worms you will encounter is if you aren't watchful with the disassembly. But if you do get into trouble, there is plenty of help here.
Harvester
