There is a crank-like tool that works for removing and installing the return springs. The large open end has a hole that fits over the anchor pin, with a ramp to slide under the spring to remove it; the other end has a step in it to hook over the anchor pin and stretch the spring over the anchor to install it. You should also buy a cylinder hone and plenty of brake fluid to use for honing oil. Use alcohol for cleaning the parts. Don't bother with 'brake cleaner', its expensive and mostly alcohol. You can get medical rubbing alcohol for about a dollar a quart most anyplace. That works fine. And if you draw blood during the process, you have a ready supply of antiseptic available. If the cylinders are badly rusted or pitted, either replace them or get them sleeved- I don't know who offers that service, but its available. If you hone them, there is a maximum over-bore size, but at the moment, I don't remember what it is- .005" I think. Trouble with that is, I haven't seen brake cylinder gauges for sale anywhere in recent years, and they were a specialty item when they were available. You can use an inside micrometer if you can find one that fits, but that still leaves you without the over-bore limit. You can buy cylinder hones at most auto supplies, and Sears. I prefer the type with three stones, but two will work. Make sure you get a hone that fits both diameter and length of the cylinder; length is mostly important for the master cylinder. When you hone a cylinder, work the hone back and forth to give a cross-hatch pattern in the bore. That way you don't take off too much metal in one place.
A cylinder kit should have good instructions for re-assembling the cylinder, but sometimes you get extra parts that are for different applications. So as others have advised, watch what you do and keep all your old parts until you are tired of looking at them- and everything works. And the cup part of seals goes toward the pressure source- the flat side goes toward the piston in wheel cylinders.
The brake spring pliers mentioned by others were mostly used to remove shoes with riveted linings- you hooked the big-hook end of the tool into a rivet hole and and the small hook into the spring, then streched the spring to disconnect or re-connect it.
Also, buy yourself a spring compressor to use on the coil spring retainers that are lower on the shoe. You can remove and replace those springs and lock washers without the tool, but your patience is likely to wear out, and so will your fingers, before you get all those springs and lock washers installed. The tool looks like a screwdrive with a large open end that is knurled inside to grip the washer while you hold the 'nail' pin in place while you remove or install the springs and washers. The tool usually costs around 10 dollars, but is eminently worth the cost.
Also, if your truck is a half-ton or a passenger car, I didn't pay attention to what you are working on, the brakes are 'energizing' brakes, which means that you have primary and secondary shoes. The primary shoe is shorter than the secondary, and goes in the front position of the wheel. If you mix primary and secondary shoes, you may not notice anything until you really need brakes- then you will get really unpleasant surprises.
Hope this helps.
Harvester
